THINGS TO DO

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Philadelphia is divided into neighborhoods with dimensions and names that vary depending on who you ask or which map you consult. But generally, the land bordered by the Schuykill and Delaware rivers (west and east, respectively), and contained by Vine and South streets, north and south, is considered Center City. Within this rectangle you'll find the Parkway/Museums, Convention Center and Old City districts spanning the north from west to east. Market Street, which runs west-east, cuts Center City in two. South of Market Street lies the Rittenhouse Square, Washington Square and Historic/Waterfront districts. University City is an entity of its own, just west of the Schuykill River.

If that sounds unwieldy, don't worry, it's not. Center City at its widest is roughly 25 blocks—that's practically a stroll in Manhattan! Everything from historic sites and cultural venues to shopping centers and waterfront attractions, is very accessible. While walking, just look up and you're likely to see helpful colorful maps on street posts. Also, keep your eyes open for markers commemorating spots like where the first box of Girl Scout cookies were sold.

Amtrak will let you off at the 30th Street Station, over the river, waving-distance from downtown. If you're feeling energetic, walk down Market Street to the Visitors Center on 6th Street and Market. But catching the Market-Frankford subway from the train station is also easy. It'll put you a block from the Visitors Center where you can stock up on all the local info your heart desires. Afterward, get your photo taken under Robert Indiana's famous LOVE sculpture, which is also in the plaza.

Public transportation like the purple PHLASH buses are great for looping to popular attractions. Catch one in front of the Visitors Center, or at any of its 33 stops. Day passes can be purchased when boarding. If you'd prefer a narrated tour of town, leave the driving to Philadelphia Trolley Works. They visit sites like the Liberty Bell, Philadelphia Museum of Art and Penn's Landing. Look for the burgundy and green vehicles at hot spots throughout town.

Sporty travelers can cycle around town on bikes courtesy of Trophy Bikes. Rentals come complete with a helmet, lock and all the advice you could want. They also provide guided bike tours with a microphoned host. Pick up a bike map chock-full of information like which streets have bicycle lanes, where the 22-mile Schuykill River Trail winds and how to bring bikes on board public transportation.

No trip would be complete without a visit to "America's most historic square mile," Independence National and Historic Park, loosely bounded by Second and Sixth streets, and Walnut and Arch streets. Before sinking your teeth in, start your sojourn at the Visitors Center at Third and Chestnut streets, where you can get a walking map and brochures. Park rangers are also on site to help you out. Be on the lookout for folks in period dress—you may even spot Benjamin Franklin making the rounds.

Highlights in the area include the Liberty Bell, Old City Hall and Independence Hall (pictured left), where you can catch a carriage ride. Snapping a clear shot of the famous cracked bell requires the patience of a saint—be prepared to battle families for prime camera space. Stop by the United States Mint and Betsy Ross House, also in the vicinity. The African American Museum in Philadelphia and the National Museum of American Jewish History are nearby museums of note.

The Philadelphia Museum of Art is the big name in town. You may initially recognize it as home to "Rocky's" stone StairMaster, but there's world class art to be seen atop those stairs. Their collections range from Medieval to modern. Past exhibitions have included, "Tea, Poetry, and Rimpa: Works From Japan" and " Van Gogh: Face to Face." You can get to the museum on Benjamin Franklin Parkway by catching the #76 bus near the Visitors Center at JFK Plaza.

Also in the Parkway/Museum district, you'll find the Rodin Museum, four blocks from the Philadelphia Museum of Art. There's more to the sculptor than just "The Thinker," though you probably won't want to miss the pensive piece. Kids will enjoy the Please Touch Museum, three blocks south. They can join in interactive exhibits like, "Sendak," filled with monstrous creatures from his books. The Franklin Institute Science Museum is right across the street. Walk through the giant heart, stargaze in Fels Planetarium and watch larger than life films in the Tuttleman IMAX Theater.

You may want to pay a visit to see the Institute of Contemporary Art (ICA) in University City. They were the first museum in the nation to exhibit Andy Warhol, and they also stirred up some '80s controversy when they put together a traveling show of Robert Mapplethorpe's photos. Here's your chance to view artwork by 21st Century innovators. Take the Market-Frankford line from Center City.

If you're fascinated by medicine's past, head across town to the College of Physicians in the Rittenhouse Square district (a breeze on the Market-Frankford line). You'll be mesmerized by the Mütter Museum's gruesome collection. View Grover Cleveland's jaw tumor, an old iron lung and lots of goodies preserved in formaldehyde.

The New Year's Day Mummer's Parade is a colorful tradition in Philadelphia. Take bus #57 (it runs down Fourth Street though Independence National Historic Park) to South Philadelphia, and revel in the Mummer's Museum. What's a mummer, you ask? Good question (I wasn't sure even after watching the parade). Here's your chance to find out.

When it comes to culture, Philadelphia ranks with the best of them. The Philadelphia Theatre Company is a provocative favorite for plays like "The Laramie Project," inspired by the murder of Matthew Shepard in Wyoming. The company showcases contemporary playwrights at The Plays and Players Theatre, three blocks south of Rittenhouse Square. The Wilma Theater, on the Avenue of the Arts (a.k.a. Broad Street south of City Hall), is a respected theater company producing plays by well-knowns such as Tom Stoppard and Tina Howe. Another option is the Walnut Street Theatre, a national historic landmark, and America's oldest theater. This is the place for shows in a musical vein like, "A Chorus Line."

Historic landmarks abound in Philadelphia, and the Academy of Music, the oldest opera house in the United States, is yet another. The Philadelphia Orchestra, Pennsylvania Ballet and Opera Company of Philadelphia all call the academy home. Funny guys like Bill Cosby and Jerry Seinfeld also grace the stage with their comedy stylings. You'll find the Prince Music Theater just off the Avenue of the Arts, two blocks from City Hall. The center is committed to singing theater productions, including musical comedy, experimental work and opera. The theater is also host to the Curtis Opera, Phildanco: The Philadelphia Dance Company and the Festival of World Cinema.

Fairmount Park, west of Center City is worth the #76 bus ride (which can be caught at Penn's Landing or along Market Street). It's the largest landscaped park in the United States, and if you position yourself just right, you won't even be able to see downtown Philadelphia's buildings over the treetops. Fairmount Park is filled with bike paths, tennis courts, picnic areas, monuments, gardens and last, but definitely not least, The Philadelphia Zoo. Walk with the wallabies and peek in the hummingbird house.

Penn's Landing makes a splash on the waterfront. Take the Market-Frankford line to the Second Street Station, and walk two blocks towards the Delaware River. Stroll the pier, soak up some sun and learn a thing or two about the deep blue sea at the Independence Seaport Museum. Outside the museum, you can catch a RiverLink ferry to Camden, NJ. Spirit of Philadelphia cruises are self-contained entertainment vessels. Sightseeing trips complete with dining and dancing, depart from Penn's Landing all year-round. In the winter, skaters can do their thing at RiverRink, an open-air ice skating park located at Columbus Boulevard and Spring Garden Street.

Philadelphia has plenty of national sports teams to root for. The Flyers (who even have their own cereal) and the 76ers can both be caught at the First Union Complex, while the Eagles and the Phillies play at Veterans Stadium. Both venues are on Broad Street in South Philly, accessible by the Broad Street subway line—hop off at Pattison Avenue, the last stop.

Like any major city, Philadelphia has its share of shopping centers. Places like The Gallery, smack in the middle of town, and The Shops at Liberty Place, on 16th and Chestnut streets, house the usual suspects like Gap and Nine West. I may as well mention King of Prussia Mall since it's such a doozy—it's the largest mall on the East Coast. But the shopping center is in the suburbs so shopaholics should plan accordingly. (It is possible to catch bus #124 on 13th and Market streets to the mall.)

If you'd rather delve into neighborhoods, the Rittenhouse Square area, bordered by Market and Spruce streets and Broad and 20th streets, is lined with elegant boutiques, hotels and salons. Walnut Street is the main strip. Other areas of note include Antique Row, on Pine Street from about 10th Street to 17th Street. Jeweler's Row, America's oldest diamond district, runs down Sansom Street between Ninth and Seventh streets, a block from Independence Hall. South Street from 11th to Front streets is a funkier district where you'll find records, books and knickknacks.

For foodstuffs, the Italian Market, on Ninth Street between Wharton and Christian streets, is full of stalls hemmed in by like-minded stores. Continue your exploration of South Philadelphia, and grab a cheesesteak for strength while you're at it. Reading Terminal Market is a conveniently located bonanza across from the Convention Center, at 12th and Arch streets. Part farmers market, part food court, you can purchase fresh produce, baked goods, cookbooks, spices and more.

LODGING

Each neighborhood is sprinkled with lodging options, and none are difficult to reach from the 30th Street Train Station. As long as you're staying in Philadelphia proper, mobility shouldn't be an issue; the Omni Hotel (left), for instance, is convenient to everything.

Hotels are also to be found in the University City District, just west of the train station. Options include Sheraton University City (prices range around $149/night) and the modern Inn at Penn, which is in the same complex as the restaurant, Pod (mentioned below).


Near the Convention Center you'll find recognizable names like the Sheraton University City, the Marriot Courtyard Philadelphia Downtown and the Hilton Garden. In the heart of downtown, expect numerous choices from the economical Holiday Inn Express to the more luxurious Sofitel (pictured left) with French touches, tasteful decor and impressive bathrooms (complete with enormous tub and roomy, plate glass shower—turn up the volume control knob to listen to TV while soaking).

Those who prefer quaint character could try Shippen Way Inn in the Historic District. The circa-1750 B&B was once a boardinghouse for longshoreman, but don't worry, it's been remodeled a bit since then (rates begin at $80/night). The 1011 Clinton Bread-and-Breakfast Suites in the Washington Square District, are housed in a welcoming 1836 Federal townhouse (rates begin at $135/night).

In nearby Plymouth Meeting, try the Doubletree Suites.  In Point Pleasant, try the charming Tattersall Inn.

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DINING

Philly is undeniably a food-lovers paradise. Gourmets, gourmands and just plain gluttons will have no trouble finding something to suit their fancy. Cheap eats and fussier fare peacefully coexist in the city.

What trip would be complete without a gooey cheesesteak? Everyone's got an opinion on the best, and the rivalry between Geno's and Pat's King of Steaks, two catty-corner, 24-hour steak purveyors, is as heated as any in history. To be honest, I don't find much difference between them, though I'm a bit swayed by Pat's public napkin dispensers—this is some messy stuff. Be advised, these joints are the soup nazis of South Philly. Have your money ready, ask for sodas at the second window and whatever you do, order properly. A standard cheesesteak with onions is pronounced, "whiz wit." In other words, Cheese Whiz (the default cheese, which is nothing to laugh at) with onions. Oh, it'll all make sense once you get there. Head to S. Ninth Street and Passyunk Avenue, just south of the Italian Market.

With over 80 vendors hawking everything from fresh fruit and cheese to Peking duck and Amish apple tarts, Reading Terminal Market, in the Convention Center District off 12th and Arch streets, is a must for all. But plan your eating strategy wisely, as a stomach only has so much room. Tommy DeNic's stuffs a sandwich so well, cheesteaks should be shaking in their boots. Their roast pork with provolone is over the top tasty. Don't miss Beiler's Bakery, you'll kick yourself for not picking up a six-pack of sticky buns. Thinking I'd be back the next day, I eschewed items like the irresistible cakes at Braverman's, and charming chocolates at Mueller's molded into the shape of chicken drumsticks, the Liberty Bell and E.T. (yes, the extraterrestrial). However, I was thwarted on my surefire route to sugar-induced coma by the market's lack of Sunday hours. Keep in mind, this is a Monday through Saturday place.

Chinatown is just around the corner, occupying the area between Ninth to 11th streets, and Arch to Vine streets. Seafood can be had at Tai Lake Restaurant, and Ocean Harbor is a spot for dim sum. Don't pass up the opportunity to try Burmese food, a cuisine severely lacking in NYC, at Rangoon. Enjoy the spicy amalgam of Indian and Chinese cooking. Get your fill of pho, and treats like papaya salad with beef jerky and rainbow ice at Pho Xe Lua Viet-Thai Restaurant—look for the cute neon train in the window.

The Rittenhouse Row District is primed for upscale tastes. For luxurious French dining, it gets no better than Le Bec-Fin. Susanna Foo has been serving award-winning Chinese cuisine with a sophisticated flair since 1987. The hip would do well to seek out ultra-mod, Pod, in University City. Expect a sensory overload for the eyes and palate. Stark white molded furniture, seats that glow when sit upon, booths with adjustable colored lighting, cocktails representing every shade of the rainbow and sushi conveyor belt, make this Asian-fusion newcomer an attraction in itself.

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NIGHTLIFE

Philadelphia has more going on at night than you could possibly attempt in on a single weekend. Head down to South Street if you feel like jumping into the fray—think wall to wall people and a little hooting and hollering. If riding through the melee in a horse drawn carriage sounds like your idea of fun, tours depart from Second and South Streets, 7pm to midnight. Pick from various hangouts like Guru where you get pan-Asian morsels accompanied by techo-spinning DJs, or Mako's with dude sort of vibe. Or check out Fluid, the tiny club with the latest in hip hop and house music.

Cross town to the Northern Liberties (the area just beyond Chinatown and Old City, north of Vine Street) and check out popular dance clubs like Gasoline and Shampoo.

Khyber in Old City, is the place for seeing bands of the alt. pop/rock persuasion. Mellower folks may appreciate the nearby Tin Angel, an acoustic, coffee house style venue. Zanzibar Blue on S. Broad Street is a supper club in the true sense of the word. They cook up Creole fare and live jazz seven nights a week.

Whistles of all persuasions can be wet in Philadelphia. Take your chances at local dives like Dirty Frank's Bar off Antique Row, or Doobie's at the edge of the Rittenhouse Square district, where Yuengling is likely to be the beer of choice. Regulars are a tight-knit bunch—don't be put off by a cold shoulder or two. At the opposite end of the spectrum, there's Swanky Bubbles, a champagne, cigar and sushi lounge in Old City. For more class with less trend, try the martinis at Swann Lounge in the Four Seasons hotel.

Art-lovers have viewing options galore, from intimate galleries to major museums. The Old City district, between Second and Fifth streets, and Chestnut and Vine streets, is a hot destination for gallery hopping, as well as dining and shopping. The neighborhood really lights up on the "First Friday" of each month when galleries stay open late and reception galas are thrown. The Philadelphia Museum of Art hosts a "Wednesday Night" event from 5 to 8:45pm, weekly. Tours, gallery talks, food, drink and music, are all part of the evening's festivities.

For film, the United Artist Riverview across from the Delaware River, is the largest movie theater in Philadelphia. Artier offerings in a more intimate setting can be had at the Ritz 5 in Old City.

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TRANSPORTATION

BUS:

Greyhound buses leave from Port Authority and drop off at Philadelphia's bus terminal, located at 10th and Filbert streets.

Travel Time: Between 2 hours and 2 hours, 45 minutes (schedules vary).

Schedule: Buses leave one to two times an hour.

Call 800-231-2222 for more information.

TRAIN:

Try a combo of SEPTA (Southeastern Pennsylvania Transit Authority) and NJ Transit. Take a NJ Transit train from Penn Station to Trenton. There, you can transfer to the SEPTA R7 train line into Philadelphia. NJ Transit Call 973-762-5100. SEPTA Call 215-580-7852 for information.

Travel Time: About 2-1/2 hours.

Schedule: Trains leave Penn Station at least once an hour, more often during rush hour.

Or take Amtrak from Penn Station in Manhattan to the 30th Street Station in Philadelphia. It's located just west of the Schuykill River.

Travel Time: About 1-1/2 hours.

Schedule: Trains run two to three times an hour.

Call 800-USA-RAIL for details.

CAR:

Take the NJ Turnpike to Exit 4. Take Route 73 north to Route 38 west to US 30. Take US 30 west over the Ben Franklin Bridge to I-676. Drive south on Sixth Street to Walnut Street (historic area will be on your left). Then, travel west on Walnut Street to Sixth Street (4 blocks) to the Visitors Center (Sixth Street and JFK Boulevard).

Travel Time: Around 2 hours.

CAR RENTAL:

Various booths are at the 30th Street Train Station, including Avis. 215-386-6426.

LOCAL TRANSPORTATION

SEPTA runs buses, subways and commuter rail throughout the city and beyond. Useful routes for visitors are the Market-Frankford (east-west from Penn's Landing to University City) and Broad Street (north-south) subway lines. Also, the #76 bus travels from Penn's Landing to the Philadelphia Zoo and Fairmount Park.

For details and schedules, call 215-580-7800.

PHLASH is the hard-to-miss purple bus that loops through tourist spots in town. The shuttle runs seven days a week, every ten minutes, from 10am to midnight in Summer.

Call 215-4PHLASH for more information.

LUCY (Loop through University City) is a shuttle that leaves from the 30th Street Station every 10 to 30 minutes, and stops throughout University City. It runs Monday through Friday, 6:10 am to 7 pm.

TAXI:

City Cab Company: 215-492-6500.

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TRAVEL TIPS

Bring a good pair of walking shoes, and don't forget your camera!

LINKS

VisitPA.com

MAP

For a detailed map of Philadelphia, please click here.