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Downtown Williamsport lies primarily within the ten-block grid formed by West 4th Street and West 3rd Street to the north and south, and William Street and State Street to the west and east. Those arriving via Susquehanna Trailways will be let off at the Trade & Transit Center on West 3rd, within walking distance of a few hotels. (If you've arrived in Williamsport by car, meanwhile, you'll find parking at the majority of the hotels and B&Bs, while street parking is generally metered.)

Make the Lycoming County Visitors Bureau, inside the Trade & Transit Center, your first stop for pamphlets and self-guided walking tour maps. The historic district can also be toured while resting your feet aboard one of the historic Williamsport Trolleys (above), which run from June through August. A trolley stop is located conveniently across the street from the Trade & Transit Center.

A great way to orient yourself in downtown Williamsport is to stroll down the civilized strip known as West 4th Street. Book lovers should absolutely call on Otto's, an independent bookstore that's been in business since 1877; an unmistakable labor of love, Otto's is also a headquarters for books, maps, and other memorabilia of regional interest, so also be sure to stop in if you're looking for more info on this part of Pennsylvania. One door down, Gifts of Art displays varied and unique local artist's works, and is a great place to hunt for gift items a little out of the ordinary. From inside Gifts of Art you can saunter directly into the Java, Juice, and Arts Cafe, a funky, comfortable coffeeshop that has a wide menu of shakes and other non-caffeinated items in addition to some top-notch joe.

Your culture tour continues further west on 4th Street, where if you look up you're sure to spot the distinctive marquee of the Community Arts Center. The Arts Center hosts up to fifty live events annually, with acts ranging from Willie Nelson to vintage musicals, and not least of all, the Williamsport Symphony Orchestra, which puts on concerts here several times a year. But it's worth attending any event at the Arts Center just so you can experience the 2,100-seat hall up-close. Originally opened in 1928, this was one of the true old-fashioned movie palaces, and a 14-million-dollar restoration in the '90s restored it to its former glory. Take note of the hand-painted end-caps on each row of seats, study the murals on the walls and the ornate ceiling fixtures, and see if you don't think this is what an auditorium was meant to be!

Speaking of murals, across the street from the Arts Center is where you can enjoy Williamsport's Downtown Mural Project, panoramic artworks lining three sides of a parking lot and adjoining public space. Study the faces in the paintings and see which ones you can ID—they're a crafty mix of widely-known public figures along with some local folks being commemorated for their service to the town. Walking through the Mural Project also brings you directly to the Coffee & Tea Room, an unusually spacious cafe serving the always-welcome non-chain coffee. (It's also one of downtown's key performance spaces—see under "Nightlife," below.)

A walk west along West 4th Street will quickly take you from downtown to Millionaires' Row—so named because at one time Williamsport had more millionaires per capita than anywhere on earth. Out of its mid-19th century heyday as the "lumber capitol of the world" came a variety of architectural examples unrivaled in the area; in fact, no less an authority than Victorian Homes magazine has described Williamsport as "Pennsylvania's motherlode" for Victorian architecture!

Accordingly, the mansions along the row demonstrate styles ranging from Italian Villa to Queen Anne to Gothic Revival. One especially impressive Queen Anne, the Rowley House (corner of West 4th and Walnut), is also a museum open to the public by appointment. The high steeple of the Gothic-style Trinity Church (left) is nearly impossible to miss, as is the Italianate Herdic House Hotel, which once accommodated 700 people.

Next door to the Trinity Church, be sure to stop into the Thomas T. Taber Museum, whose thirty-five exhibits walk visitors through the history of north central PA. In addition to its Native American gallery, frontier room, one-room schoolhouse, and woodworking shop recreating life in these parts, the Taber also boasts one on the greatest model train collections in the U.S.—at last count, more than 300 toy trains and two working displays!

The Taber's model trains should put you in the mood for the nearby Peter Herdic Transportation Museum, dedicated to the history of transit on "rivers, rails, and roads" throughout the state. The Herdic's star attraction is its genuine Pullman railroad car, which will let you find out what "traveling in style" really meant, back in the day.

Williamsport proper also gives you a chance to get a taste of the outdoors. The Susquehanna State Park borders the Susquehanna River as it wraps along the southern edge of town. While in the park, book a ride on the Hiawatha Paddlewheel Riverboat (pictured above) for a Sunday brunch or Friday evening dinner. (For a less passive experience, karaoke cruises are offered on the Hiawatha too.) Cruises operate on the Susquehanna River from May through October.

The first-ever Little League game was played in Williamsport. Take a walk through the history of an American pastime on a self-guided tour by picking up pamphlets at the Lycoming Visitor's Center. The walk will take you past the site of the first game as well as the stadium that was erected in 1942 and hosted the first twelve Little League World Series. In addition to the history walk, a short drive outside Williamsport along Route 15 will bring you to the Peter J. McGovern Little League Museum. Try setting the day's fastest time on the running track, playing pitch-ball, or simply strolling past the Museum's unequaled collection of Little League memorabilia.

Don't forget that the grown-up version of baseball flourishes in Williamsport, too! A class-A affiliate of the Pittsburgh Pirates, the Williamsport CrossCutters play at historic Bowman's Field (picture, top), near the west end of town, from June through early September.

If the Williamsport's evocations of the 19th-century splendor aren't taking you far enough into the past, another kind of time travel awaits just outside of town, along Route 220. Setting up in Linden every weekend in June and early July, the Medieval Majesty Renaissance Faire presents an eye-popping pageant of lords and ladies, jesters and jousting tournaments, sword swallowers and fire breathers. Hand-crafted artisans' wares and live blacksmithing demonstrations also help ground the fun. Show up in "period garb" and you'll get a reduced admission ticket! (Quick—where's that old cape you were meaning to throw out?)

While the largest concentration of shops and galleries lie within the Williamsport area, there are a number of other unique sites worth driving to visit. Following Route 220 north past Williamsport will take you to Katie's Country Store in Hughesville. The old-fashioned gift shop sells penny candy, clothing and everything in-between. Katie's is also home to the Strawbridge Art Gallery and its collection of regional artists. Hughesville also hosts the Billtown Blues Festival each June and East Lycoming Farm & Heritage Show in August.

The Olde Barn Center has a large collection of antique furniture and collectibles from all periods. Its fifteen antique dealers are housed in a mid-19th-century post and beam barn located on Route 220 North, in Pennsdale. Pennsdale is also home to the historic 1799 Quaker Meeting House.

To the east of Williamsport, the town of Muncy was chartered by Benjamin Franklin and later became a stop on the Underground Railroad. This is where you'll find the Sones Farm & Home Museum, a vivid recreation of farm life in these parts during the 19th century. Other Muncy high points include the Fin, Fur and Feather Museum, for the taxidermy enthusiast, and the Annual Antique Show & Sale, held each August. (Muncy, by the way, is also served by the bus line Susquehanna Trailways.)

"THE GATEWAY"
If you'd rather shop for hiking boots and sleeping bags instead of fine jewelry and wall art, Lycoming County will not disappoint. Outside of Williamsport, the surrounding Appalachian Mountains offer endless trail systems for hiking and biking as well as secluded streams specifically designated for fly-fishing. A birder's paradise, the 215,000 acres of Tiadaghton State Forest stretch into the northern section of Lycoming County and offer a truly beautiful outdoor playground.

Nestled within the state forest, Little Pine State Park has a number of hiking trails for all levels of experience and interest. One of the more challenging trails, the Spikebuck Hollow Trail, passes a number of scenic viewpoints on its route. The smaller Ravensburg State Park lies within a steep-walled gorge, and the valley's rock formations and forest make for a particularly beautiful visit at the height of foliage season.

On the western edge of the county, the Pine Creek Rail Trail was named one of the top ten trails in the world by USA Today. Bikers and hikers alike will fall in love with the sixty-four mile crushed limestone trail that begins in Tioga County and winds south to its terminus in the Lycoming town of Jersey Shore.

The number of world-class streams in which to cast a line could potentially overwhelm fly fishermen who are new to this area. Both Loyalsock Creek, reachable on Route 87, and Slate Run, beginning on Route 414 in the town of Slate Run, have been designated as fly-fishing only. Before hitting the trail or wading into a stream, gear up at Lyon Camping & Supply on Broad Street, in Montoursville. The well-stocked outfitter carries a full line of camping and climbing gear, as well as maps and guides.

Golf or skiing, anyone? The White Deer Golf Course is the area's only public course. Head to Ski Sawmill for the slopes!

The largest and most centrally located lodging option, the Genetti Hotel & Suites (left), sits square in the heart of downtown, within easy walking distance of most of the Williamsport attractions described here. If you're arriving by bus, you won't have to carry your bags more than a few blocks, while those driving to the area will find parking conveniently located in the rear of the hotel. The Genetti dates from the 1920s, and visitors looking for a break from chain hotels will respond immediately to its old-timey elegance. In addition to its 200 well-appointed rooms, the Genetti also offers a restaurant, bar, fitness center, and outdoor pool.

A few blocks from the Genetti sits the Hampton Inn. With all the amenities you'd expect from the well-known hotel chain, the 140-room Hampton Inn also includes an indoor swimming pool and fitness center. Continental breakfast is included. Other nearby hotels include the Holiday Inn, Radisson, EconoLodge on East 3rd Street, and a Super 8 Motel.

In the mood for a little Gilded Age luxury? Cozy up to a slice of Williamsport history by booking a room at the Peter Herdic House. The former home of lumber baron Peter Herdic, this restored Victorian mansion (from 1854) counts original brass and silver chandeliers and handsome red-oak woodwork among its amenities. Continental breakfasts and free off-street parking sweeten the package even further.

B & B goers will enjoy the Serene View Farm Bed & Breakfast in Williamsport or the Bodine House located in historic nearby Muncy. For other accommodations outside of downtown Williamsport, try the Cedar Run Inn in Cedar Run or the Gamble Farm Inn (left) along the banks of the Susquehanna River in nearby Jersey Shore. A short drive from Williamsport along Route 220, the 150-year-old farmhouse has six guestrooms, a pool, and an excellent restaurant.

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The highest concentration of culinary options in Lycoming County will be found in Williamsport, chiefly in the downtown area or along Millionaires' Row. Options range from steak houses to small-town cafes.

For a fine dining experience, try the Herdick House Restaurant (left). Housed in the former home of a mid-19th Century lumber baron, the Italian Villa design of the house provides a fitting atmosphere in which to sample the restaurant's sumptuous Italian dishes.

Pazzo and Franco's Lounge, two downtown Italian restaurants, draw consistently good crowds; the sauces at Franco's, in fact, are so popular that the restaurant has taken to selling them in take-home jars!

For pub food done well, and in a lively atmosphere, head to the Bullfrog Brewery & Restaurant on West 4th Street. Order a Cajun steak and shrimp and wash it all down with one of the eight to twelve microbrews on tap. The Bullfrog is also an excellent spot to break for lunch. Across the street from the brewery, Legends Restaurant & Lounge offers a hearty American menu.

For a light breakfast coffee and muffins, head to Julie's Coffee on West 3rd Street; the corner location may have you feeling as if you're watching all of Williamsport go by. (Julie's also has a lunchtime menu of soups and sandwiches.) Up on West 4th, the Coffee & Tea Room is another good option for morning muffins, afternoon tea, or a snack at any time. (The Tea Room also has computers with Internet access.)

Outside of Williamsport, the Gamble Farm Inn and Pub is a must. Located in Jersey Shore, along the banks of the Susquehanna River, the restaurant serves a rotating menu of eclectic dishes.

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The prime mover among Williamsport's cultural offerings, the Community Arts Center (see above, under "Things to Do") hosts everything from nationally known entertainers like Leeann Rimes to touring Broadway shows and the Williamsport Symphony.

For after-hours fun, several destinations along West 4th Street are all located conveniently close to one another. The Bullfrog Brewery, with eight to twelve microbrews on tap at all times, is one of the only bars of its kind in the area. Right down the street, Legend's (the Genetti Hotel lounge) will let you follow sports action on the TV or simply relax with a cocktail or a Yuengling (PA's dependable local standby, when it comes to beer).

Live music in the folk and alternative vein makes the Coffee & Tea Room as inviting at night as it is during the day.

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BUS:
Schedule: Leaves 2x daily. Call for schedule: 1-800-692-6314.
Travel time: 5 to 5-1/2 hours from Port Authority.

CAR:
From I-80 West to I-180 to Route 220 South.

CAR RENTAL:
Enterprise has a location in Williamsport and Hertz at the regional airport in Montoursville.

TROLLEY:
Tuesday through Sunday, from June to August, catch a Historic Williamsport Trolley through the historic district of Williamsport. (Pick one up across from the Trade & Transit Center.)

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The Little League World Series is held here in the second half of August—and whether you're here for the Series or not, remember that hotel rooms in the entire surrounding area are booked up early for that time of year.

Lycoming County Visitors Bureau

For a detailed map of Lycoming County, please click here.