THINGS TO DO

Bethlehem is a city of "firsts" and "oldests:" the first trombone choir, the oldest continually running bookshop, and the first Christmas tree. In fact, every first Friday of the month, South Bethlehem shops stay open late, offering free food or samples to customers.

FROM MAIN TO MORAVIAN
Specialty shops are plentiful here! For an eclectic experience, pop into the Moravian Bookshop (above left) on Main St. and peruse their selection of books, gifts, and, in the cafe, gourmet foods. They have the unique distinction of being the oldest continually-running bookshop in the United States! And once you have a chance to poke around, it's clear the owners aren't coasting on their name: this is a first-rate independent bookshop with an excellent selection of fiction, nonfiction, and books on local interest. It's also the place to pick up a Moravian star, an infallible gift idea once the holidays approach on the calendar.

When you've emptied your wallet and finished your Christmas gift list in Donegal Square on Main St., stow your bags and stroll over to the Moravian Museum for a little historical perspective. Every Saturday from April-December, guided walking tours are offered at 2:30 pm (2x daily between Thanksgiving and Christmas), starting at the museum. You'll stop at sites like the Central Moravian Church (left), the Kemerer Decorative Arts Museum, and a cemetery dating from 1742, among others. During other times of the year, you can take a self-guided tour.


The Moravian Museum, located in The Geimenhaus (or "community house" in German) is the oldest building in Bethlehem and was the site of the first documented Christmas tree! Originally a tabletop display, the first tree was decorated with apples, nuts, and bible verses. Over 14 languages were spoken at this first place of worship. You'll see examples of early furniture, cooking utensils, and clothing. Worn on skirts and cuffs, ribbons symbolized women's status; pink meant single, blue meant married, red was for children, and white represented "widow." You'll also see some of the earliest American musical instruments at the Geimenhaus, as Bethlehem is also the site of the first trombone choir.

Open to the public for special events, the 1758 Sun Inn (left) affords a glimpse of an 18th-century tavern, now preserved as a museum. Both George and Martha Washington slept here—albeit on separate occasions.

The Moravians were a communal society, all working together to provide for the group as a whole. Reflecting a belief that every man was equal, the headstones in the God's Acre Cemetery lay flat rather than on end. Black slaves were buried next to prominent white townspeople, next to Mohican Indians. (Women were still separated, however.)

Next to God's Acre Cemetery sits the Kemerer Museum of Decorative Arts, where you'll get a glimpse of what life was like later in the Victorian Era. The Kemerer has over 10,000 photos and manuscripts accessible to the public for research, and the Historic Bethlehem Partnership has done an excellent job by creating kid-friendly interactive exhibits at each of its historic sites. When you're done with your tour, relax in the peaceful Victorian garden just outside the Kemerer (left).

During Christmas, visitors will enjoy the Moravian Christmas Putz (lifelike miniature nativity scene with narration), candlelight concerts, carriage rides, and an annual holiday market called Christkindlmarkt.

Families will love History Works!, an award-winning, hands-on gallery for kids, where the younger folk can dress up like colonial children (and then learn to appreciate jeans and sneakers all over again!).

Finally, if the wealth of historical information and architecture in this part of town has you feeling a little overwhelmed, consider ducking into the Wired Gallery and Cafe, also on Main. The Gallery features an eclectic mix of contemporary artwork (sculptures were especially strong when we stopped in), and segues seamlessly into the adjoining cafe space. Smaller but equally eye-catching pieces adorn the walls of the cafe, where you can enjoy caffeinated goodness and other drinks and snacks amidst super-groovy surroundings.

THE BEAUTIFUL SOUTH(SIDE)
You might think Main Street and the blocks surrounding Moravian College offer enough for a full day's itinerary in their own right. But if you don't venture across the Lehigh River to Bethlehem's Southside, also known as South Bethlehem (pictured, left), you'll be missing some of the best this town has to offer. Just take New Street south across the bridge five minutes and you'll be in the heart of this funky, vibrant neighborhood spread out just below Lehigh University on Third and Fourth Streets.

Stylish furnishings and accessories are available from Home & Planet, including a number of witty creations—from handbags to wall clocks—made from recycled materials. Monsoon Gallery, meanwhile, displays an eye-catching array of contemporary painting, sculpture, and mixed-media artwork. And finally, music nuts, bring your dollars: up on Fourth Street, Play It Again offers a superlative selection of alternative music, including a hefty amount of vinyl (both 33s and 12-inches).

Moving further "afield," Bethlehem is also home to the Stabler Arena and Lehigh University's Goodman Stadium, home turf of the USBL PA Valley Dawgs and the training camp for the Philadelphia Eagles, respectively. Outdoor enthusiasts should head to nearby Sand Island for tennis and basketball courts and beautiful walking and bike trails along the Lehigh River. In addition, there is also a center for SCUBA diving, Dutch Springs.

LODGING

Just off Route 22, a few minutes northwest of central Bethlehem, the Courtyard by Marriott (left) offers all the amenities as well as a location that makes it exceptionally easy for visitors with cars to travel anywhere around the Lehigh Valley. The friendly and reliable service is another plus—before we were even finished asking the best way to get somewhere, the front desk had produced a printout of helpful driving directions.

For those arriving by bus, the Historic Hotel Bethlehem is a few blocks from the stop on Main St. There are also a few bed & breakfasts in town; if you want a taste of the Gilded Age luxury that steel money produced at the turn of the last century, there's the elegant Sayre Mansion, which is deservedly famous for the glass-roofed suite on its top floor.

The Hampton Inn & Suites and the Best Western Lehigh Valley Hotel & Conference Center both offer seasonal packages.

Only five minutes to downtown Bethlehem, the centrally-located Comfort Inn Bethlehem offers spacious suites (some with kitchens), VCR movie rentals, and the Cheers Pub. (Check out their Karaoke nights!) Also just outside of town, the Four Points Sheraton Hotel & Suites is both a mainstay for travelers and a hallmark gathering place for the local community.

See more info on lodging in Bethlehem

DINING

It's said that for every cuisine, there's a restaurant somewhere in Bethlehem! And in fact, the locals are blessed with a wide range of options that might make you think you're in a much bigger city.

For a truly top-notch dinner, make a reservation at Apollo Grill—and hope you can get in, because it's likely to be jumping even on weeknights! This is the kind of restaurant that gives "fusion" a good name, because they do everything well. Appetizers like the tuna carpaccio and the chorizo are so outstanding that they're virtually a meal in themselves, and the wait staff will help you pair a dependable selection of wines with your choices. Across the street from the Apollo Grill, Edge (above left) offers a similarly upscale dining experience, while The Starfish Brasserie, also nearby, is the place for dependable seafood.

West Broad Street (where all three of the above restaurants are located) is also where you'll want your first meal of the day—at Billy's Downtown Diner, where friendly waitresses will serve you unusually imaginative (and delicious) breakfast dishes like the "Carbonara" and "CaboWabo" omelettes in a relaxed atmosphere.

Looking to try something a little more ethnic, maybe? Don't forget that Bethlehem's Southside has plenty of possibilities, too. For sushi, there's The Dancing Fish, while Nawab is an Indian restaurant with a popular (and more than reasonable) lunch buffet. Southampton Fish & Chips offers authentic British grub; English Premiere League soccer is carried on the telly here, which provides the perfect accompaniment to your bangers and mash or, for dessert, a fried Mars bar.

(Insider tip: if your sweet tooth kicks up between meals, the brownies at the Moravian Bookshop cafe are heavenly!)

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NIGHTLIFE

Since Bethlehem is a college town, you'll find plenty of pubs. Head to Bethlehem Brew Works or the Tally Ho Tavern for a cold one. If you like a little live music and/or dancing with your beverages, cross the river to the south side of town for the Funhouse, which offers rowdy rock and roll, while next door Godfrey Daniels hosts country, folk, and jazz performers.

And, speaking of music, it's important to add that the performing arts are remarkably plentiful in Bethlehem! From the Pennsylvania Youth Theatre and the Banana Factory (arts center, left) to the Bach Choir, to the Zoellener Arts Center at Lehigh University, you're sure to find your own particular inspiration. On a recent fall weekend, for instance, choices ranged from a revival of Porgy and Bess to the local premiere of the New York hit Metamorphoses.

See more info on nightlife in Bethlehem

TRANSPORTATION

BUS:
From the Port Authority in New York City, you can get to Allentown via Transbridge Bus (800-962-9135). The bus drops you just over the bridge in South Bethlehem.

Travel time: 2-1/2 to 3 hours.

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CAR:
From the George Washington Bridge, take Route 80 West to Route 287 South to I-78 West (or from the Verrazano Bridge, take NJ Turnpike South to Exit 10, then Route 287 North to I-78 West). In New Jersey, take I-78 West.

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TRAVEL TIPS

Pack a camera and extra
spending money for holiday gifts and
Moravian stars!

LINKS

Lehigh Valley Convention and Visitors Bureau

MAP

For a detailed map of Bethlehem, please click here.