 | | | | Steuben County — Weekend Getaway | | | | by Jeff Tompkins |
 This
is the ultimate weekend getaway! Glass and glassmaking. Wine
tastings and tours. Art, aviation, and history museums. Foliage
and fishing. A single weekend doesn't begin to cover all the
options Steuben County (pronounced
"Steu-BEN") offers visitors!
Located in Western New York's Finger Lakes Region, just north of the Pennsylvania state line, the area offers metropolitan culture in the midst of an outdoor playground—so no matter what your interests are, Steuben County is likely to have something for you!
Steuben's history reflects its varied character. Colonial settlement of the area only began in earnest in the late 1780s, after the native Iroquois had been subjugated by the U.S. Army. Until the mid-1800s, lumbering was the major economic engine: sawmills sprang up around the county, as the name of one town, Gang Mills, still attests. But by that time, an extensive network of canals and railroads was helping to make the town of Corning into a bona fide commercial and industrial center. Corning's first major industry, of course, was glassmaking (led by Corning Glass Works), but for decades bricks and drills were two other mainstays. Up in Hammondsport, wine was being made well before the Civil War, and that industry has only continued to grow in the 150 years since.
Much of the old manufacturing base is gone now, but Corning Incorporated, the former Corning Glass Works, has moved into the high-tech realm of flat-panel displays and semiconductors and still helps anchor the local economy. Farming, meanwhile, continues to preserve much of Steuben's rural character, particularly in the northern and western parts of the county.
The renewed emphasis on regional tourism and restoration after a massive flood in 1972 is very much to a visitor's benefit—as you'll see when you begin to take in the sheer array of attractions and activities Steuben County presents. (Be sure not to miss a plaque at the Corning Museum of Glass showing the flood's high-water mark—you'll barely believe your eyes!) If you have questions, or simply want to learn more, the Steuben County Conference & Visitors Bureau
(1-866-946-3386, toll-free) is a good place to start.
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IN
CORNING
Get your start by stopping in at the Information
Center of Corning at One West Market Street for
guides, lodging info, maps, events and more info about
Finger Lakes Wine Country. A good way to orient
yourself is by exploring Corning's marvelously walkable
Gaffer District, or downtown, which encompasses
historic Market Street (left) and the adjoining blocks.
Here you'll discover dozens of shops and restaurants:
antiques, boutiques, and a variety of other mom-and-pop
businesses all situated on tree-lined streets that have
preserved their late-19th/early-20th-century character.
And after a long day of shopping, you'll need to rejuvenate.
Underneath its deceptively quiet exterior, Interludes
of Corning offers a sophisticated spa experience for those
in need of a respite.
Once you've had a chance to explore the Gaffer District,
it's time to check out Corning's heavyweight attraction:
GLASS! Vitrix Hot Glass and Noslo
Glass each give visitors a chance to browse a
gallery full of art glass as well as to see skilled glassblowers
at work in their studios. On the northwest side of town,
Hands-On Glass provides one-on-one and
group glassblowing instruction to all ages and experience
levels. Children as young as 2 can blow their own ornaments,
while slightly older kids and adults can make their own
paperweights or pressed-glass suncatchers.
Give yourself at least an entire morning or afternoon—minimum—at
the world-class Corning Museum of Glass,
where you can follow the entire history of glassmaking,
from ancient Mesopotamia right up to the present day.
Highlights of the collection include a 2,000-year-old
Roman bottle you can touch, a Tiffany window, and a sumptuous
19th-century baccarat table. Live glassmaking demonstrations,
meanwhile, allow you to see elegant pieces created before
your very eyes (below left). If the live demos make you
curious about a more hands-on experience, walk-in workshops
at the Museum will let you make a glass souvenir of your
very own.
This
is an AMAZING experience not to be missed! For a nominal
fee, you'll get hands-on instruction in making your very
own glass bauble! They'll even ship it home to you after
your visit for FREE! Make sure you stop in at the museum's
shop - you won't leave empty-handed!
No mention of the Corning Museum of Glass (left)
is complete without stating that admission is free to
anyone 17 and under. In addition, the Museum's "Annual Pass" program means that adults pay admission once
and can then come back as often as they like, free of
charge, for the rest of the calendar year. Ask for “Annual Pass” and register for it at the admissions
desk. (Now that's our definition of a "glass act!")
Also free, and exceptionally convenient, is the year-round
shuttle bus that will take you from the Corning Museum
of Glass to the Rockwell Museum of Western
Art, housed in a handsome neo-Romanesque building
that used to be Corning's City Hall. Throughout the Rockwell's
stunning third-floor galleries, classic traditional interpretations
by Frederic Remington and N.C. Wyeth rub shoulders with
contemporary and Native American works—which makes
for fascinating multiple perspectives on the Old West!
A second-floor gallery, meanwhile, showcases genuine Colt
six-shooters and Winchester rifles in a handsome Western
lodge-style setting. The museum's "Kidswest Festival"
takes over an adjacent parking lot in the summer, although
kids should check out the museum's Education Gallery at
any time of year. Best of all, the Rockwell Museum
of Western Art is also free to all "pardners"
17 and under and they offer a superb outdoor space for
special events!
Take note of the bison gargoyle atop the building's entrance
and ask for the story on your way in!
Still in the mood for history? Step back in time! The
Patterson Inn Museum allows you to experience 18th-
and 19th-century Americana from the inside—literally.
Here you'll step into an actual 1796 inn, a log cabin
dating from the 1850s, and a one-room schoolhouse from
1878, all of them original to the area and adorned with
period furnishings and artifacts. Once you've seen the
inn, you won't look at your own hotel or B & B in quite
the same way!
COME FLY WITH US
Steuben and the surrounding counties' natural thermals
(that is, "rising bodies of warm air"—we didn't
know what they were either, until we visited) made the
area integral to the development of aviation in this country.
Now, three museums located an easy drive from Corning
celebrate this heritage with tours, hands-on interactive
exhibits, and actual flights.
 The
Glenn H. Curtiss Museum (left) is named
for local boy Glenn H. Curtiss, who invented the first
seaplane in 1911 and the first flying boat a year later
(thus earning the title "the father of naval aviation").
With its assortment of vintage planes, powerboats, and
other vehicles, the Museum not only reflects Curtiss'
varied achievements, but has also expanded to encompass
typewriters, cameras, shadowboxes, you name it! (We were
especially taken with a wreath made of human hair dating
from 1861.) Great artifacts from early machine-age America
are amply represented, making the Curtiss Museum
a history aficionado's dream! We received a great "house
tour" from the museum's director - a pilot himself!
Take note of the Women Pilot's History section - awesome!
On
your way there, you'll pass through Hammondsport known
for its beautiful Victorian painted homes and B&B's!
In nearby Chemung County, perched atop scenic Harris Hill, the National Soaring Museum is dedicated to the "history of motorless flight"—in other words, to all manner of gliders and sailplanes. Visitors will be wowed by the actual gliders on display, many of them stunning examples of aeronautic design, and can try out computerized flight simulators before they take a ride in a sailplane (available seasonally). The Wings of Eagles Discovery Center, in the town of Horseheads, not only preserves and exhibits classic military aircraft, it also flies them. Especially popular with veterans, Wings of Eagles displays everything from actual WWII-era fighters and transport planes to Vietnam-era Army helicopters and more; if you're lucky, your tour guide may be an actual vet whose firsthand knowledge of the exhibits will add enormously to the tour! And visitors to the museum can do more than just look at the planes—30-minute rides in vintage WWII training aircraft are also available to the public. RIESLINGS TO GET UP IN THE MORNING
New York's Finger Lakes Region is home to several-dozen wineries that remain open year-round. Several of them overlook Keuka Lake, in and around the village of Hammondsport in the northern part of Steuben County—so you get the added advantage of glorious vistas with your vino!
Founded in 1860, the Pleasant Valley Wine Company
is the oldest winery in the Finger Lakes Region, particularly
known for champagnes and dessert wines (although, on our
tasting, we were partial to the Mendall Red÷ask
for it!). More than two-dozen caves dug into the adjacent
hillside are a highlight of the Pleasant Valley tour.
Chateau Renaissance Wine Cellars, another
of the oldest planted vineyards in the Finger Lakes, is
known for classic standards as well as fruit wines. (Visitors,
be sure to ask for "Corky!")
 Three wineries grace the western side of Keuka Lake. Best known for its Rieslings, Dr. Frank's Vinifera Wine Cellars consistently wins gold medals in national competitions and has been singled out for the quality of its product by Frommers and Wine Spectator. The tasting room stays open 7 days a week, 361 days a year÷a testament to the high demand for Dr. Frank's product! Just down Route 76 from Dr. Frank's is the Heron Hill Winery (left), where the cafe and tasting room command another dazzling view of the lake. Meanwhile, it's "no snobs allowed" (a popular chant at tastings) at Bully Hill Vineyards, a 115-acre vineyard dedicated to "wine with laughter." (Football fans, did you know Bully Hill is the official wine of the Buffalo Bills?) On the slopes above the eastern side of Keuka Lake, Ravines Wine Cellars produces blends in the European manner÷all dry and produced in small quantities÷and the owners specialize in creating opportunities for you to enjoy their wines with local and regional foods. All this, appropriately, takes place in a handsome French chateau-style setting. (Important note: please see "Travel Tips," below, for a word of advice about: getting to and from the above wineries.) OUT AND ABOUT
With some 30,000 acres of public land—state forests and wildlife management areas—Steuben County is a paradise for lovers of the outdoors. Spring and summer abound in opportunities, but you should also know that autumn brings with it fall foliage every bit as breathtaking as anything you can see in New England!  One place to experience this area's natural beauty close-up is Stony Brook State Park, where visitors can hike (the gorge trail is one highlight), picnic, and swim in a natural pool. Pinnacle State Park offers hiking and picnicking as well as a 9-hole golf course with sweeping hillside views. A good part of New York State's Finger Lakes Trail runs through Steuben County, too—hikers can gain access through a vineyard in Hammondsport, among many other “jumping-on” points in the county.
The area is a favorite destination for sportsmen as well. Hunters should know that Steuben is home to wild turkey, pheasant, ruffed grouse, and bear—not to mention having the highest annual whitetail deer harvest of any county in the state! Local waters like the Conhocton River and Keuka Lake are home to several kinds of trout, bass, landlocked salmon, pickerel, and perch, and there's even an official NY State Fishery in town of Bath. Try the Finger Lakes Guide Service for details on hunting, fishing, and hiking guides as well as charter cruises. You can also contact the Steuben County Conference & Visitors Bureau (1-866-946-3386) for information on hunting and fishing packages as well as other guide services and equipment. See more info on activities and businesses | | | |
Visitors
to Corning have two options right in the heart of town.
The Radisson Hotel Corning stands within
walking distance of the museum shuttle, shops and dining
options, and glassblowers' studios, while the Days
Inn - Corning, located 2 blocks from the Museum
of Glass, is also an easy walk to Market Street.
The
comfortable Fairfield Inn by Marriott
in Corning is extremely convenient (located right off
of I-86) and is very family-friendly! It serves a free
continental breakfast and a Wendy's,
Bob Evans and Friendly's
are all within a few yards!
Just outside of town, the Holiday Inn - Corning/Painted Post is a recently renovated full-service hotel that allows kids to stay and eat for free. The Days Inn - Bath is extremely convenient to Keuka Lake and the local wineries.
 Those looking for more personalized accommodations should investigate the Hillcrest Manor Bed & Breakfast (left). A short walk uphill from the center of town, this 1890 neoclassical mansion has been meticulously restored to its original condition by owners Dick Bright and Kyle Goodman. The rooms are quite large, and Dick and Kyle have stocked all of them with their personal collections of Steuben glass and original works of Western art—thus providing a nice thematic link to two of downtown Corning's leading attractions The Rockwell Museum of Western Art and the Corning Museum of Glass.
For a more rustic experience (sort of), Hickory Hill Family Camp Resort, in the town of Bath, offers cottages and tent and RV sites alongside The Finger Lakes Wellness Center and Spa, complete with aromatherapy, massages, and other New Age amenities designed to heal body and soul. Come see why Hickory Hill was recently touted by GQ magazine!
In
nearby Cohocton, try the elegant, victorian Ambrosellis
Villa Serendip B&B.
See more info on lodging |
| If you want to start your day with a caffeine fix, look no further than Corning's Soul Full Cup Coffeehouse, serving the best espresso in town! Kick back with your laptop or a local paper in one of the comfy chairs and enjoy the refreshing non-chain coffeehouse environment. Bottles & Corks is where you can pick up local wines at reasonable prices (and get in the mood to visit nearby wineries as well!) Visitors interested in fine dining can investigate London Underground, which is also notable for its dessert menu and live piano entertainment on weekends. Three Birds, meanwhile, draws acclaim for both its outstanding cuisine and its Finger Lakes wine list.
For
hearty Italian fare, Sorge's offers the
classic red-check tablecloth experience in a down-to-earth,
friendly environment. Locals swear by the eggplant entree,
and we can vouch for the exceptional "Lasagna alla
Roma."
While
in Corning, of course you must stop at Wegman's
-a grocery shopping and experiential extravaganza, and
its Market Cafe. (Trivia: this was the
site of the first Wegman's). For another special
experience, the scene is always hopping inside Corning's
Old World Cafe and Ice Cream, and for
good reason. Here you'll find top-quality ice cream (courtesy
of Purity, in Ithaca), tasty sandwiches, and a number
of gourmet items, both on the menu and for sale at the
counter. (We were happy to be introduced to Straciatelli
soup.) Diners in the main room will admire the tin ceiling
and ornate woodwork behind the counter, both of which
contribute to the cafe's old-time ambiance. Converted
into a restaurant from an old pharmacy, they serve excellent
panini sandwiches and wraps!
For an authentic greasy spoon experience (and we mean greasy spoon as the highest of praise), try Donna's, say some of the Corning locals. Over at R & M, the rigatoni (a Thursday special) gets high marks. Frills of New York offers excellent subs and other sandwiches, while a reliable source informs us Jim's Texas Hots has the best hot dogs in town! And we can personally attest that Jellybeans, across the road from the Holiday Inn in Painted Post, features outstanding breakfast omelets.  Up in Hammondsport, the Snug Harbor Restaurant & Inn combines the best of two worlds: seated right on the water at Keuka Lake (left), you get to choose from the kind of sophisticated menu you'd normally expect to find in a big city. Among other sublime creations, we enjoyed the stuffed shrimp appetizers and the "Grilled Pork Loin Medallions a la Keuka"—mmm!
Less formal dining options can be found on Keuka Lake,
too—try the Switzerland Inn for
American cuisine (children’s menu available), and
the Waterfront Restaurant for American,
Italian, and seafood.
See more info on dining | | | |
Downtown Corning bustles by day, every day, but after dark, as in so many towns, the scene definitely picks up towards the end of the week. Soul Full Cup Coffeehouse features live jazz, blues, and folk on Friday and Saturday nights.
Quench your thirst with a pint or two of the good stuff at Market Street Brewing Company, the area's only microbrewery. We liked the Mad Bug Lager, on the lighter side, whereas if your tastes run more towards Guinness you should definitely sample the D'Artagnan Dark. A few doors down, The Snooty Pig provides a welcoming Irish pub environment! Be sure not to overlook two Hammondsport hot spots, either÷the Lakeside Restaurant, on Keuka Lake, and the nearby Village Tavern, facing Hammondsportâs charming village green, both feature live entertainment throughout the summer. See more info on nightlife |
| AIR:
The nearest airport is the Elmira/Corning Regional Airport, 12 miles from downtown Corning and serviced by Continental, US Airways, and Northwest Airlink. Rochester's airport is slightly over 1-1/2 hour away, and the Syracuse airport is an approximately 2-hour and 20-minute drive away. TAXI:
For taxi service to and from the Elmira/Corning Regional Airport, the bus stop or other local destinations, visitors can try Terp's Enterprises at 607-795-4426; Bill's Taxi at 607-731-8880; or Vets One Taxicab at 607-962-8294. CAR:
NYC is approximately 250 miles from Corning. Take I-80 West to I-380 North; near Scranton, PA, pick-up I-81 North. Near Binghamton, switch to I-86 West and follow it to Corning. Parking is only $2.00 a day at the centrally located Centerway Parking Garage (Tioga Avenue, at the Clock Tower); after noon, it's only $1.00 per day, and after 5 pm parking at the garage is free. Parking is free all day on weekends, too! (Weekday visitors may also purchase 2 parking tokens at the Information Center of Corning and pay half-price.)
CAR
RENTAL:
Avis (800-331-1212) and Hertz
(800-654-3131) rent from the Elmira-Corning Regional Airport
Enterprise (800-261-7331) has rental
branches in Bath and Painted Post.
BUS:
As part of its daily service to Corning, Adirondack Trailways (800-776-7548) discharges passengers at the S & A Mini Mart at 305 South Hamilton St. Short Line Bus Lines (800-631-8405) offers daily service from New York City to Corning, discharging passengers at 80 West Market Street (right in the middle of downtown—making Corning proper a bona fide carless-getaway!) See more info on transportation |
| Regardless of where you stay in Steuben County, youâll need to drive to reach the wineries above Keuka Lake. If you want to relax and truly enjoy your tastings, we recommend that you hire transportation—or, at the very least, make sure you have a designated driver! Etiquette tip: You may already know that a "gaffer" is a master glassblower. But wise guys of both genders should be aware that glassblowers refer to the smaller oven used for reheating molten glass as a "glory hole." So be a tactful tourist and try to keep a straight face when you hear the phrase spoken out loud.
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All photos courtesy of the Steuben County Conference & Visitors Bureau, except:
Hillcrest Manor Bed & Breakfast image courtesy of the Hillcrest Manor Bed & Breakfast.
Fat Cats image courtesy of Fat Cats and Snug Harbor Restaurant & Inn image courtesy of Snug Harbor Restaurant & Inn. | | |
