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Greene County,
NY
Weekend Getaway
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by Patrick Gilsenan
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Rich
artistic history, majestic mountain views, and modern amenities like world-class
skiing and championship mountain golf make the corner of the Catskills known as
Greene County, New York an ideal escape from the bustle of city
life.
Visitors to this mountain
region, located forty minutes south of Albany, can hike to the vistas captured in the works
of America's first major movement in painting. Visitors may also enjoy skiing and boarding on mountains with 1,600-feet
of vertical drop. Summer afternoons may be enjoyed by browsing an artisans' market beside
the Hudson River. Golfers will enjoy Greene County's mountain and valley courses.
The nation first began
noticing Greene County in the early 1800s, when English painter Thomas Cole came
to the region to capture its stunning colors and mountain vistas. Cole and the painters
he inspired became America's first great landscape artists, and their movement is
known to us today as the Hudson River School of Art. Cole's house and studio have
been preserved, and a map now guides visitors to the landscapes captured in the
artists' works.
The Hudson Valley's oldest
house and a modern water park are among Greene County's other unique attractions.
And with plenty of hiking, fishing, and boating to be found in the Catskill
State Park and in the valley, Greene County is an ideal center for any
Catskill vacation.
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Visitors to Greene County
may want to begin with a stroll down Catskill's all-American Main Street.
The Catskill Chamber of Commerce (at 327 Main St.) has created
a self-guided walking tour to help visitors identify the town's original buildings
and their early uses. Main Street has since been upgraded, with six of its buildings
recently converted to art galleries. Catskill has also been repositioning itself
and Main Street as a Mecca for high-end and individually designed home furnishing
and accessories. At the end of Main Street you willl find historic
Catskill Point. America's first vacationers would disembark here after
their river journey up from New York City. The Point is now a riverfront park, which
hosts a small maritime museum and a weekend artisan's and farmers market as well
as concerts and events from May through October.
To
get a sense of the beauty and history of this area, stop by the Thomas Cole
Historic Site (left). Located in Catskill near the river's edge, at the
west end of the Rip Van Winkle Bridge. The site includes Cole's
house and studio. It chronicles the Hudson River School's history from 1825, when
Cole first came to the area, to his later inspiration of artists such as Frederic
Church, who continued the movement into the late 1800s. During that period the house,
known as Cedar Grove, served as a meeting place and incubator for
some of the most prominent artists of the day.
The Cole historic site
also serves as the first stop on the Hudson River School Art Trail,
which leads visitors to seven of the exact vistas depicted in some of the movement's
paintings, including Cole's Falls of Kaaterskill. All
the sites lie within 15 miles of Cedar Grove; a few require hiking.
Just a 15-minute drive
from Cedar Grove, across the Rip Van Winkle Bridge, is Olana, the
Persian-style fantasy home of Cole's apprentice, Frederic Church. The mansion was built
on a mountaintop between 1870 and 1891 amid 250 acres of grand Catskill vistas.
Church designed the home's furniture and filled the house with paintings, sculptures,
and tapestries highlighting great civilizations. The house and its contents remain
largely unchanged from Church's day.
Another interesting historic
site is the Bronck Museum Complex, which includes the Hudson River
Valley's oldest surviving house, built in 1663 and an addition built in 1738. Both
showcase 18th- and 19th-century furniture, art, and textiles. Two barns, including
a unique 13-sided barn, have also been restored and are open to the public.
Golf
is also one of Greene County's most popular warm-weather activities, with nine courses
spread throughout the county. Among the longest is the 7,072-yard Christman's
Windham House Country Inn and Golf Resort. This course opened in 2003
and offers five sets of tee boxes, a golf school, driving range, multiple putting
greens, and lodging.
Also in Greene County
is the Windham Country Club, which offers a 6,024-yard, par-71
course rated three-and-a-half stars by Golf Digest magazine. Other courses
include the challenging mountain course at the Blackhead Mountain Lodge and
Country Club and the tamer, par-66 Sunny Hill Resort and Golf Course.
And whether it's biking,
hiking, boating, fishing, or camping, those who love the outdoors will want to explore
Greene County's many mountain trails and waterways.
Mountain bikers will
find rare, lift-assisted downhill and cross-country riding with bike and helmet
rental on Hunter
Mountain from July through October. Other outfitters on the mountaintop
will also rent bikes and provide trail maps.
Hikers will find
plenty of terrain to explore here, like the two-mile trek to the 4,040-foot
Hunter Mountain
summit and fire tower, offering 360-degree views of the Catskills. Smaller hikes
include the 3/4-mile hike to the 15-foot Diamond Notch Falls and
the half-mile hike to the famous Kaaterskill Falls.
Fishermen can test their
skills in Greene County's 50 wild trout streams, encompassing over 220 miles of
fishing. Brook, brown, and rainbow trout abound in the East Kill, Catskill, Schoharie,
and Ten Mile creeks. Weekly regional, state and national level bass fishing tournaments
take place in the riverfront villages of Catskill, Athens, and Coxsackie from May
through October. Novices to the sport can enlist the help of Greene County charter
boat and fly-fishing outfitters.
Boaters,
canoe paddlers, and kayakers can find plenty of local launch, docking, and
rental facilities such as the Riverview Marine Services and CD Lane Park with canoe
and kayak rental available.
Recreational vehicle
and drive-up campers will also find more than a dozen campgrounds throughout Greene
County, with back-country camping available at North-South Lake.
And, of course, wintertime
brings some of the state's best skiing to Greene County in the form of
Hunter and
Windham Mountains. Both mountains provide more than 3,000
feet of elevation, 1,600 feet of vertical drop, and 100 percent snowmaking
coverage. Lodging on the mountaintop is provided by dozens of independent hotels,
motels and bed and breakfasts.
(Click on the links to
our profiles of
Hunter and
Windham for further details about each destination.)
See more info on activities and businesses
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One
of the most convenient places to stay for golf and skiing is
Christman's Windham House Country Inn and Golf Resort (left). This
elegant country inn offers an 18-hole championship course and nine-hole family course
as well as five colonial-style guest buildings on 300 acres. Guests enjoy a two-mile
blazed hiking trail, swimming pool, tennis court, and indoor recreation room. The
inn is one mile from the hamlet of Windham and one of Greene County's main
ski resorts. Rates range from $86 to $150 per night, depending on the season and room.
In the heart of the town
of Catskill, and close to its riverfront park, sits the charming Day House
Bed & Breakfast. Rarely will you find such an elegantly appointed
bed and breakfast as this 1791 Georgian Mansion located on Catskill's Main Street.
The mansion was completely renovated in 2003 and offers two guest rooms with Internet
connections, flat-panel televisions, air conditioning, and fine linens. One of the
guest rooms offers a private sitting area, and both share a bath. A meticulously
manicured lawn, garden, and back patio add to the experience; it's certainly one
of the more upscale and elegant private bed and breakfasts you'll find.
Or you can stay on Hunter
Mountain at the new Kaatskill Mountain Club. This state-of-the-art
facility offers a year-round, outdoor heated pool, two Jacuzzis, around-the-clock
staff, workout room, and full-service spa. In the summer guests enjoy lift-assisted
mountain biking; in the winter, ski-in/ski-out convenience. The facility also features
Van Winkle's restaurant, which has an open kitchen and a Culinary
Institute of America-trained chef. Rooms range from $150 for efficiencies during
the spring and summer to $500 for two bedrooms during the winter.
In addition to those
listed above, Greene County has cabins, condominiums, full-service family resorts,
historic inns, farm accommodations, motels for every budget, and more than 30 bed
and breakfasts.
Click on the links to
our profiles of
Hunter and
Windham for further lodging details.
See more info on
lodging
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Christman's Windham House Restaurant, open to Christman's resort guests
and the general public, is a treat for the senses. The casual ambiance doesn't begin
to suggest the quality of the food. A local chef, who worked many years abroad before
returning to the area, offers such entrees as roast duck with braised red cabbage
and a raspberry ginger thyme sauce as well as a classic southern French stew, seafood
bouillabaisse, with shrimp, scallops, mussels, and saffron. Various tapas and salads,
including a warm bacon and spinach salad, are also among the treats.
For something a little
more casual but still upscale, try Catskill's Bell's Cafe. Bell's
is a crisp yet old-time cafe with a high tin ceiling and tall windows looking onto
Main Street. Inside you'll find items such as a couscous salad with zucchini, eggplant,
olives, tomatoes and onions, and a host of "panini" (sandwiches on grilled Italian
ciabatta bread) including a roast pork sandwich with apple butter and caramelized
onions. And if you're really hungry, try the unique selection of half-pound, hand-formed
burgers, like the Asian burger with basil mayonnaise.
And for a truly down-home,
riverside diner, try Ursula's in Athens. Across the street from
the Hudson River, Ursula's friendly, no-frills interior and diner prices make it
a welcome spot for any visitor.
If you find yourself down
at Catskill's waterfront park, stroll over to the adjacent Catskill Point
Restaurant. This casual restaurant/bar has a full pub menu along with
a wraparound deck overlooking the Hudson River and live music during warm weather
weekends.
See more info on dining
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Greene
County is known more for daytime activities than nightlife, but the occasional live
band can be found and theater performances abound. There are even several old-fashioned
drive-in movie theatres.
Many of the area's full-service
resorts offer nighttime entertainment, and well-known regional bands perform during
the summer months at the riverfront parks.
Year-round dance, theater
and classical music performances can be found at the Catskill Mountain Foundation
Arts Center in
Hunter. Movie buffs will enjoy the Catskill Mountain Foundation
Movie Theatre, also in
Hunter, which shows foreign and independent films on one screen
and Hollywood blockbusters on another. The Community Theatre in
Catskill also shows a series of independent films.
Most of the traditional
bar and lounge nightlife is found in the mountaintop areas of Hunter and Tannersville,
particularly in wintertime.
See more info on nightlife
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AIR:
Greene County and Catskill are approximately 40 minutes drive from the Albany
International Airport. Direct flights to Albany from New York City are
approximately 1 hour and 10 minutes. Flights from Newark and Boston clock in at
approximately 1 hour, with flights from Chicago taking roughly 2 hours and 10 minutes.
CAR:
Drive time from New York City is roughly 2 hours and 20 minutes with Newark coming
in at 2 hours, and Philadelphia taking approximately 4-1/4 hours.
CAR RENTAL:
Car rentals are available at the Albany International Airport from Avis
(800-331-1212), Budget (800-527-0700), Enterprise
(800-261-7331), Hertz (800-654-3131) and Alamo
(800-462-5266). Car rentals from Enterprise can be arranged
at the Metro-North/Amtrak station in Poughkeepsie (approximately 1 hour from the
village of Catskill) and at the Amtrak station in Hudson (approx. 10 minutes from
the village of Catskill). Enterprise is also located in Catskill at Bengal Motors and can be reached at (518) 943-0028.
TRAIN:
Amtrak offers a 2-hour direct train from New York's Penn Station
to Hudson, New York, which is 9 miles outside of Catskill. Other trains with connections
in New York City are offered from Philadelphia and Newark. Travel times vary from
3 to 4-1/2 hours, depending on the connection delay.
BUS:
Adirondack Trailways
provides daily service from the Port Authority Terminal in New York City with stops
in Catskill (corner of Main Street and Rt. 385) Palenville, Cairo, Hunter, and Windham.
The journey may take upwards of 3 hours due to stops and transfers. Greyhound offers
an 8-hour and 20-minute bus from Philadelphia, and a 7-hour bus from Newark.
TAXI:
Numerous local taxi companies, such as A & R Taxi (518-943-6666),
serve Catskill and the Greene County area. Check the local yellow pages for additional
listings or click under "Community Services" at
www.greenetourism.com.
See more info on transportation
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With many activities
spread across the county and region, you'll want to consider which activities you'll
most likely do before booking your accommodations. Booking centrally located or
activity-specific lodging will help cut down time spent traveling between attractions.
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All photos courtesy of
Greene County Tourism.
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