GENESEE COUNTY, NY – WEEKEND GETAWAY

by Carolyn Jensen

The area of Western New York between Buffalo and Rochester—referred to as the Greater Niagara Region—is home to Genesee County (the birthplace of Western New York!). The Seneca Indians (who still inhabit the area) controlled Western New York until the end of the 18th century, when land was purchased by Dutch settlers and then divided into tracts. Genesee was named from the Seneca word meaning "beautiful valley."

Travel brochures will tout the area's ideal location, but what makes this area truly special is its sense of living history, which is perfectly at home in the rural countryside. Locals take an active role in keeping the stories of the past alive—Civil War re-enactments are staged in a local cemetery, town employees are well-versed in the legends and truths that formed the area's identity, and a wealth of quirky museums dot the small towns and cities. Agriculture is the number-one industry and "homemade" and "handmade" are synonymous with the area.

A simple drive along rural but well-maintained roads is one of the purest pleasures. Genesee County is full of proud Americana. Wide corn fields are flanked by red barns and stout silos. Pretty plank houses sit on neat squares of lawn behind tree-lined streets. Wooden roadside signs announce towns and their year of birth. Inside these towns, hand-painted signs often boast establishments and roadside attractions which offer quilts for sale, antiques and crafts as well as railroad paraphernalia and collectibles Look further into the area's rich history with a visit to a museum or historical site.

  THINGS TO DO

See more info on these activities and businesses

Batavia, Genesee County's centerpiece, is home to 16,000 residents. A recently completed downtown beautification project means that new restaurants and retailers now share in the rejuvenation along with the businesses that have been a staple of Batavia for decades.

Darien Lake Theme Park and Resort (left), in Darien Center, is a marvel. It has over 100 rides and attractions spread over 250 acres. The site's magnitude means more attractions than the typical amusement-park offerings, i.e. a beautiful new on-site lodge, a campsite for tents and RVs and a 20,000-seat amphitheater for hosting big-name performers.

The LeRoy House is actually more of a mansion—a historic one that's completely decked out with furniture and goods from the 1830s. The LeRoy Historical Society runs tours of a 17-mile stretch of the Underground Railroad, with the LeRoy House as a step-on point.

Adjacent to the house is the JELL-O Gallery Museum, one of the area's quirkier claims to fame, where you can learn the evolution of the quintessentially American dessert. Hands-on quizzes, displays and a hundred-year-old advertising archive bring the story to life. Be sure to stop in the gift shop—leaving here without a small Jell-O trinket would be a shame!

Don't forget culture! For art exhibits, symphony concerts and performances, visit GO Art!s Cultural Facility or the Genesee Center for the Arts in Batavia (left).

Shopping is big in Genesee County, from homemade food and crafts to antiques to furnishings. Oliver's Candies, just a block down Main Street, dates back to 1932. Everything about the store's sunny interior harkens back to a time when food was actually made by hand and shopkeepers knew your name. Tall windows on the back wall allow patrons a peek into the candy factory, where workers pluck candy off an old-fashioned conveyor belt, I Love Lucy-style. Ask nicely and one of the employees might even let you in the back to take a peek at the store's long-time chocolate dipper at work. A true artisan, making all sorts of shapes and characters entirely by hand, Oliver's chocolate dipper has been at it for 24 years! (Now that's dedication!) The adjacent ice-cream parlor is a recent addition, but was modeled after the parlors of the 1930s—right down to the handmade flavors.

Looking for homemade items and crafts? Stop into the Country Cottage in Darien, South Main Country Gifts in Batavia, Clarissa's Country Cupboard in Byron or Just Browsing in Pembroke.

Main Street in Batavia is lined with historically significant houses, museums and shops. The best starting point is the Holland Land Office Museum (left), which sits on the site where over 3 million acres were originally surveyed and sold by Dutch settlers (hence Batavia's reputation as the birthplace of Western New York). Learn the history of the region by perusing several exhibits, including one on some of the oldest inhabitants: mastodons—the nearby town of Byron is the site of an annual paleontological dig. More recent history includes dainty Victorian clothing, ghost legends and one of the state's only remaining gibbets (used for hangings in the 1800s).

Batavia Downs Gaming and Racing is in full swing with a recent addition of 590 video lottery terminals. Historically speaking, this facility is the oldest lighted harness horse racetrack in North America. The racing schedule starts in August and runs through November.

The Medina Railroad Museum holds over 6,000 artifacts and knickknacks, making it the country's largest railroad collection. A 204-foot model railroad is the museum's work in progress; even in its unfinished state, the tiny, intricate details and hand-painted landscapes are awe-inspiring! With frequent departures you can take off from the museum on a leisurely, scenic rail trip along the beautiful Erie Canal! It also hosts the Day Out With Thomas event, based on the popular Thomas the Tank children’s book character. It is an annual event, bringing in 22,000 people each year to this very unique museum.

The Iroquois National Wildlife Refuge in Basom, over 10,000 acres of marshlands, forests and trails, acts as home to countless species of birds, fish and other wildlife. The government-run park allows several types of hunting and fishing. Located within the borders of the refuge is a one-mile hike called "Swallow Hollow." This unique trail has reopened after 5 years with new renovations to the boardwalks, which take you directly through the natural wildlife which inhabits the area. The Genesee County Park & Forest and Interpretive Center (left) in Bethany hosts 430 acres for hiking, biking, picnicking and winter sports.

In wintertime, head to Polarwave Snow Tubing in Batavia for family-friendly snowtubing (featuring tube tows to bring you and your tube back up the hill).

NEARBY ATTRACTIONS:

A good place to stop by if you're driving from point to point is the Tonawanda Indian Reservation. It's inhabited by Seneca Indians; reduced prices for items like gas and cigarettes can be found here—located just six miles north on Rt. 77 at Exit 48A, NYS Thruway.

One of the biggest draws for locals and visitors is nearby Letchworth State Park. Letchworth is actually located just outside Genesee County, straddling the border between Wyoming and Livingston counties on over 14,000 acres of scenic property.

The Genesee River runs through the park, rushing through gorges that drop as deep as 600 feet. Trails at the top of the gorge provide views of huge, roaring waterfalls or the steep shale cliffs that earned this spot the nickname "the Grand Canyon of the East." Letchworth plays host to copious wildlife, as well as walking trails, white-water rafting, horseback riding, fishing and—for those with a little more money to spare—rides in hot-air balloons or horse-drawn buggies. In the winter, the focus shifts to cross-country skiing, snow tubing and snowmobiling.

While you're in the area, shuffle off to Buffalo and Lake Erie (just 30 minutes west), Niagara Falls and the Canadian border (45 minutes northwest), or world- class sportfishing on Lake Ontario (just 30 minutes north of Batavia).

 
  LODGING

Several choices for accommodations lie just off the NYS Thruway
(I-90) in Batavia (Exit 48). Within walking distance of Batavia Downs Gaming you'll find a comfortable Days Inn, a quiet Comfort Inn and The Holiday Inn Batavia, which offers spacious rooms and a restaurant onsite. The newest property is the Quality Inn & Suites (left), which includes an indoor pool and fcomplimentary deluxe continental breakfast. Other choices include the Hampton Inn, the Super 8, Best Western Crown & Suites and the Ramada Limited.

If the main purpose of your visit is to visit Darien Lake Theme Park and Resort, a stay on-site is the way to go. You can choose from the beautiful lodge, hook up an RV, or pitch a tent in their campground. The Darien Lake Lodge on the Lake has an upscale lodge feel, from the locally-made antler chandelier in the lobby to the on-site cafe. Luxury aside, a stay here is surprisingly inexpensive. Rooms go for $165 a night, but can comfortably sleep up to six people; park admission is included. The one catch—a minimum of two nights' stay—is hardly a sacrifice. Only staying one night? The Darien Lakes Econolodge is a convenient choice.

Campers should check out the Darien Lake Camping Resort in Darien Lake or also in Darien Center, The Skyline Camping Resort or Darien Lakes State Park.

See more info on lodgings


  DINING

Alex's Place, located near the racetrack in Batavia, is great for ribs and steak or a hearty lunch! For lunch or dinner, head to Bohn's or the Center Street Smokehouse in Batavia. The steak at the Red Osier (left) in Stafford is delectable!

The D & R Depot Restaurant in LeRoy captures so many of the things that make this area so charming. Train-station signs and memorabilia from across the globe jut out from the walls. The food is wholesome, hearty and delicious; the staff brings graciousness to a whole new level. Many dishes are country takes on comfort food; fancier dishes such as filet mignon and ostrich burgers are also offered.

Pick up ingredients for a picnic lunch at any one of several area farm stands. The wine and cheese should come from Kutter's Cheese Factory, an award-winning, family-owned operation in Corfu. The tiny store spills over with all things cheese: exotic varieties as well as cheddar, rinds, buttermilk, and tangy garlic curds. Many of the selections take advantage of local ingredients like wine from Niagara vintners.

See more info on dining


  NIGHTLIFE

Several options for nighttime fun are scattered throughout Batavia's downtown, including free concerts in Jackson Square.

Center Street Smokehouse (left) is one of only a few establishments to receive a waiver on New York's smoking ban, thanks to the owners' fierce battle with the law. (They now have a separate smoking room.) The upscale bar serves up live music on weekends, including a Frank Sinatra impersonator every Thursday night.

O'Lacy's Irish Pub has a great beer selection and frequently hosts live Irish music. Mancuso's Bowling Lanes on Main Street holds Rock n' Bowl on Saturdays. In addition, the alley's bar, T.F. Brown's, has pool tables.

Main Street Coffee, located on Main Street in Batavia, is open late, hosts live music, and supports local artists (whose works adorn the walls).

Make sure you check out their event calendar!

See more info on nightlife


  TRANSPORTATION

AIR:
JetBlue offers dirt-cheap fares to both Rochester and Buffalo from New York City. Seven daily non-stops run to Buffalo; five daily to Rochester. Check the JetBlue web site for specials—sometimes as low as $40 each way. From the airport, there is no public transportation to Genesee County, which is located roughly halfway between these two major cities, so we recommend renting a car from the airport.

TRAIN:
The nearest train stop is in Buffalo, via Amtrak. The ride takes five and a half hours from Albany, six from Poughkeepsie and eight from New York City.

Fare: from $63 one way from New York City. Schedule: There are five daily non-stop trips from Albany, three from Poughkeepsie and four from New York City. Call 800-USA-RAIL for specifics.

CAR:
Take the NYS Thruway (I-90) to Exit 48, 48A or 47. Batavia is, literally, right off Exit 48. Turn left onto Route 98 off the exit, and you will see most of city's hotels on either side of the road. Or, continue straight on 98 for less than a mile and you will be in the middle of downtown. Batavia also lies directly at the intersections of local Routes 5, 63, 33 and 98.

Renting a car is by far the least expensive and most convenient way to get around. Enterprise Rent-A-Car has locations in Buffalo and Batavia.

See more info on transportation


  TRAVEL TIPS

While it is possible to travel into Batavia without a vehicle, and walk to attractions and restaurants within the city, renting a car is strongly recommended in order to get a true sense of the area's offerings.

Bring extra film for the lush scenery and historic oddities in this county and the ones surrounding (such as the nation's highest concentration of cobblestone houses).


  LINKS

geneseeny.com
countrybyways.com
greaterniagarausa.com


  MAP


For a detailed map of Genesee County, please click here.

 


Photos courtesy of the Genesee County Chamber of Commerce





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