As noted above, Beacon and Rhinebeck, located alongside the Hudson at the county's south and north ends, respectively, are walkable towns that can easily be reached and explored without a car. Getting to, from, and between some of Dutchess's other major attractions (in towns such as Poughkeepsie, for instance) without your own vehicle is slightly more complicated, but intrepid travelers should still be able to see everything they want via bus services, trains, taxis, or a combination of any of these. (Jump down to Transportation for details.)

It's also important to note that Beacon and Rhinebeck both offer so much to do and see that each has its own EscapeMaker profile! Click on the links to read up on either destination.

ARTS AND MINDS
Thanks to Dia:Beacon's Riggio Galleries, the town of Beacon, in Dutchess's southwest corner, has become an arts destination in its own right, with new galleries and artists' studios cropping up all the time.

But the cultural possibilities don't stop down at Dia:Beacon. Up in Poughkeepsie, Picasso packs 'em in at another first-class museum—Vassar College's F.L. Loeb Art Center. With a permanent collection that includes everything from ancient Egyptian art to Georgia O'Keefe, the pocket-sized Loeb almost feels like the distilled "greatest hits" of a much larger institution. Several strong pieces from the Hudson River School are standouts (appropriately enough, given Vassar's location), and in the all-star modern gallery we were especially taken with a hypnotic blood-orange Mark Rothko and Frank Stella's Shard, which literally pops out at the viewer.

The Loeb's temporary exhibitions deserve equal attention—these change approximately four or five times a year and can feature anything from Rembrandt etchings to a collection of contemporary Native American art. And don't forget that the museum also has an outdoor sculpture garden (visitors can bring their own food), and sponsors an ongoing series of "Gallery Nights," social occasions with talks related to current shows. The Loeb Center is open Tuesday through Sunday, admission is free, and you can get to it from the Poughkeepsie train station either via cab or local bus. (It's a quick three-mile ride, and the lovely Vassar campus is reason enough to make the trip.)

If you're looking for more to do in Poughkeepsie once you've visited the Loeb, it's always worth seeing what's on at the Bardavon 1869 Opera House, right in the center of town. The oldest operating theater in New York State, and current home of the Hudson Valley Philharmonic, the Bardavon also hosts everyone from the Indigo Girls to Laurie Anderson to Frankie Valli. That's not to mention the dance performances and screenings of classic movies that take place here; visitors may also be lucky enough to hear the Bardavon's magnificently restored Wurlitzer organ, which first sent shivers up listeners' spines here in 1928!

And, speaking of the performing arts... Last but not least, in the town of Annandale-on-Hudson (a short drive up Route 9), lies another attraction visitors should take any opportunity to see—one that puts Dutchess County in the same league as Los Angeles and Bilbao, Spain. This is Bard College's Fisher Center for the Performing Arts, designed by the world-renowned architect Frank Gehry. Fans of Gehry's Disney Concert Hall in L.A. will immediately recognize the Fisher Center as a smaller-scale but no less impressive cousin to its West Coast counterpart: the exterior consists of the same billowing steel forms that suggest a gigantic ship under full sail.

But there's more to the Fisher Center than just its looks, as eye-catching as they are. Indoors you'll find a 900-seat theater (above left) with such state-of-the-art acoustics that the New Yorker magazine, no less, was moved to write that it "may be the best small concert hall in the United States." A smaller 200-seat theater, meanwhile, allows for even more intimate performances. Arts aficionados should look into Bard College's two annual summer blowouts, the multidisciplinary SummerScape and the Bard Music Festival, for their opportunity to experience the Fisher Center firsthand.

VINO IS KEEN-O
Whether you're a wine connoisseur already or just curious to learn more, the Millbrook Vineyards & Winery offers any number of rewards. Millbrook's consistently well-regarded product landed it the prestigious cover spot on Wine Spectator magazine in spring 2006; sample star attractions like the Cabernet Franc, the Chardonnay, and the Tocai Friulano at the tasting that concludes each tour and you'll discover for yourself what the good press is about! (You may just leave with more than one bottle under your arm.)

Millbrook is open from noon to 5:00 pm (7:00 pm in summer), 365 days a year, and its tours are an informative walk-through of everything from how the grapes are grown to the secrets of oak-barrel aging. The location itself is reason enough to visit: the winery is housed in a splendidly restored old Dutch dairy barn (left), and its 130 hillside acres offer spectacular views of not just Dutchess County's rolling terrain but the Catskill Mountains, over to the west.

Speaking of terrain, it's essential to add that Millbrook Vineyards & Winery is the easternmost of three destinations that make up the Dutchess Wine Trail. The other two are Clinton Vineyards, located just west of the Taconic Parkway, in Clinton Corners, and, up in the County's northwest corner, Alison Vineyards, in Red Hook. All three wineries are located within approximately half an hour's drive of one another, and taken together they give a great comprehensive overview of wine-making in this part of New York State.

HAIL TO THE CHIEF
Congress officially proclaimed the entire Hudson River Valley a "National Heritage Area" in 1996, and the number of historic sites in Dutchess County alone justifies that title. Here are three that can be accessed by taxi from either Poughkeepsie or Rhinebeck, and by local bus services.

First and foremost, allow yourself plenty of time with one of the greatest American presidents at the FDR Presidential Library and Museum, in Hyde Park. Set on a sprawling 290 acres, the Library and Museum encompass a visitors' center, the Roosevelts' family estate, the presidential gravesite, and the Library and Museum proper. It's a lot to take in—but if you can't see everything, try not to miss the Museum's multimedia exhibits devoted to the Depression and WWII, as both are moving depictions of presidential leadership in times of historic crisis.

The Library and Museum do an excellent job of humanizing FDR through personal artifacts. One highlight is the President's Study, kept much as he left it on his last visit, in March 1945—be sure to notice all the photographs of Fala, his beloved Scottie, on a side table to the left. The various knickknacks arranged on FDR's Oval Office desk, in another area, are similarly absorbing; there are a lot of little donkeys in there! Car buffs will also want to head downstairs to see the 1936 Ford Phaeton convertible that was customized so that the President could drive it himself, his polio notwithstanding.

Just a couple of minutes up the road from the FDR Library and Museum, meanwhile, the Vanderbilt Mansion (photo, top of the page) is described by the National Park Service as "the best, most intact example" of the types of estates built by 19th-century robber barons. This fully-furnished, 54-room mansion is every bit the equal of the Gilded Age palaces you're likely to see in Newport, Rhode Island, and its location overlooking the river is even more spectacular. We know, we know—at times it seems as if every attraction along the Hudson boasts of "breathtaking views," but trust us, this one is a real jaw-dropper.

And just south of the FDR Museum, also along the Hudson, Locust Grove – The Samuel Morse Historic Site (left) plunks visitors down in an earlier era. You may recall Morse (1791-1872) as the inventor of the telegraph (and Morse code, of course), but did you also know he was an accomplished portrait painter, NYU professor, and founder of the National Academy of Design? The carefully preserved mansion (40 rooms!) and museum here bring this multidimensional figure to life, and also give a fascinating history of the telegraph—you'll see why it's justifiably referred to nowadays as "the Internet of the 19th century."

Locust Grove also houses rotating exhibitions and extensive collections of American and European silver, glass, and porcelain inside an Italianate villa. Not to be missed either are the 150-acre grounds, which make Locust Grove an excellent outdoor destination in its own right (see below).

FROM TRAIN TO TRAIL!
The profusion of state parks and hiking trails has long made the Hudson River Valley a fabled spot for outdoor recreation, but now Dutchess County is home to an exciting new campground you don't even need a car to reach.

Malouf's Mountain Sunset Camp is a fully-catered camping resort for hikers located on a northwest slope of the Fishkill Ridge, just outside of Beacon, and you can get there either by walking in from the Hudson Highlands State Park (accessible by Metro-North), to the south, or via the Camp's own shuttle service, which ferries campers directly to and from the Beacon Metro-North stop.

All you really need to bring to camp at Malouf's is a sleeping bag and a good pair of outdoor shoes. Camping sites discreetly spaced along a hillside each contain their own "chow-boxes" with camping necessities as well as a fire pit and at least one night's worth of firewood. The camp's shared bathroom facility (above left) has hot showers, flush toilets, and running water. As for grub, when you make your reservation you have the option of choosing food you cook yourself or already-prepared meals.

For a quicker outdoor experience, Locust Grove – The Samuel Morse Historic Site is an excellent option. We've described Locust Grove's historical appeal above, but it's important to add that the 150-acre grounds are a nature preserve in their own right, home to a captivating blend of natural and man-made landscapes. Locust Grove is situated atop a bluff overlooking the Hudson; at the upper level you can stroll among expertly laid-out flower and vegetable gardens, and further down the slope you can explore three miles of trails that wind through wetlands, woods, coves, and even past a small lake, before emerging at the Hudson. (If you're planning to visit in the summer, however, make sure you bring bug repellent, and stick to the paths, because pesky critters like mosquitoes and ticks prey on the unwary.)

(Note: if all these sweeping views of the Hudson have you pining to get out on the mighty waterway itself, Hudson Valley Pack and Paddle, in Beacon, is one great place to start. For visitors to northern Dutchess County, The River Connection, in Hyde Park, offers tours and lessons.)

Looking for a little more privacy than you get at the average bed and breakfast? If that's the case, Inn at the Falls in Poughkeepsie could be the ideal lodgings for you! The Inn's leafy surroundings make for an unusually tranquil experience; visitors are encouraged to step out onto the back deck, adjacent to Wappingers Creek, and bask in all the peace and quiet. Amenities featured inside each room, meanwhile, include large-screen TVs, a whirlpool tub (to keep that relaxation vibe going still further), and shower stalls the size of walk-in closets.

For standard full-service accommodations, Poughkeepsie also offers the Poughkeepsie Grand Hotel, a Best Western Inn & Conference Center, a Courtyard by Marriott, and a Holiday Inn Express. The town of Fishkill boasts the Courtyard by Marriott, the Hampton Inn Fishkill, the Hilton Garden Inn Fishkill, and the Hotel Sierra.

Further north, Hyde Park has a Quality Inn, and Rhinebeck's Beekman Arms, established in 1766, is the oldest continuously-operated inn in the country.

Other options include Lakehouse Inn on Golden Pond in Stanfordville, Simmons' Way Village Inn in Millertown, and The Red Hook Country Inn in Red Hook.

If the acronym "CIA" only holds cloak-and-dagger associations for you, it's high time to visit the Culinary Institute of America. Billed as the world's premier cooking school, the Institute is where the star chefs of the future learn everything they'll need to know—and you can enjoy the benefits of their training at any of the five restaurants located on campus.

Overlooking the Hudson River, the Institute's splendid grounds make for a great stroll, whether you want to work up an appetite or walk off your sumptuous meal. (For those traveling without a car, the CIA is accessible via taxi from the Poughkeepsie train and bus stations.)

We opted for Italian at the CIA's Ristorante Caterina de Medici, housed in a Tuscan villa-style building (left). Dinner started off with a piquant antipasti sampler, which included a standout red pepper salad, followed by a marvelous Insalata Tosca made up of greens, seasonal fruit, pistachios, and goat cheese. Mouth-watering pork tenderloin was the main course, well-paired with a glass of Chianti. We barely had room for anything more at that point, but the tiramisu makes for a can't-miss dessert option, or you might want to finish off by going straight for the excellent formaggi plate instead.

(Dine al forno at the Caterina de Medici, by the way, and you'll have a good view through the large cutaway into the kitchen area, where you'll see the students going through their paces. You may become quite distracted following all the hustle and bustle back there!)

In Poughkeepsie, Cosimo's Trattoria & Bar works its own variations on a Tuscan theme. Cosimo's is known for its wood-fired pizza, but if fine dining is what you're in the mood for, the restaurant stocks more than 2,000 bottles of wine, and the owners take special care in creating a wine list that compliments their menu.

See more info on dining

Visit The Chance complex of nightclubs in Poughkeepsie and you most likely won't be taking a chance—it was recently voted the area's "Best Live Music Joint" by Hudson Valley magazine. The Chance houses three separate venues: Club Crannell Street for more local bands, The Chance Theater for bigger-name acts, and The Loft, a dance club.

For a slightly more mellow live scene, the Towne Crier Cafe, in Pawling, features name bands in folk, country, blues, bluegrass, and world music (and is also a restaurant of 25 years' standing). Rhinebeck's happening spot is the Firebird Lounge, where you'll find karaoke and ladies nights in addition to live music.

Located conveniently near Poughkeepsie's Metro-North train station, in a spiffy renovated building called Dooley Square, Mahoney's Irish Pub & Restaurant (left) offers plenty of old-country atmosphere along with late-night food. (Bangers and mash before bed—you can't beat it!) Up in Hyde Park, the Hyde Park Brewing Co. makes its own beers ("Big Easy Blonde" is one favorite) and hosts a popular blues jam every Wednesday night and the trivia game "Stump!' on Thursdays.

Finally, for all you movie nuts: in Dutchess County, you don't have to go without your fix! Upstate Films in Rhinebeck screens the latest in arthouse fare: indies, foreign films, and documentaries. And the Hyde Park Drive-In Theater, located across the road from the FDR Library and Museum, lets you see summer blockbusters the old-fashioned way (open Apr. 15 through Sept. 15 of each year).

See more info on nightlife

AIR: Though it lies across the river from Dutchess County, the Stewart International Airport (845-564-2100), located just west of Newburgh, NY, at the intersections of I-84 and I-87, connects the entire Hudson River Valley to other, larger airports. Avis (800-331-1212), Enterprise (800-736-8222), and Hertz (800-654-3131) all rent cars from Stewart Airport.

BUS: ShortLine Bus offers daily service between New York City and the following destinations: Poughkeepsie, Hyde Park, and Rhinebeck, as well as daily service among those 3 stops. Call 800-631-8405 for current schedules.

CAR: From New York City: follow the signs from the Henry Hudson Parkway to the Sawmill River Parkway to the Taconic Parkway north. Exit at Rt. 52 or 55, east or west.

Or take I-87 (the NY State Thruway) north to Exit 17 at Newburgh to I-84 east to Rt. 9 north. Or continue east on I-84 to the Taconic Parkway north. Or continue east on I-84 to Rt. 22 north.

CAR RENTAL: Avis (800-331-1212) and Hertz (800-654-3131) both rent out of Poughkeepsie. Enterprise (800-261-7331) has branches in Beacon, Wappingers Falls, and Poughkeepsie.

LOCAL BUS: For those traveling without a car, the Dutchess County LOOP bus system makes getting between major towns and cities possible. For schedules and fares, visit the website http://www.dutchessny.gov/ and click on "Transportation" under Quick Links, or call (845) 473-0171.

TAXI: In the Beacon/Fishkill area, there's Fishkill Taxi (845-896-8294). Allen's Taxi (845-485-2411), Del-Roy Taxi Service (845-452-1222), and the Yellow Cab Company (845-471-1100) all operate out of Poughkeepsie. In the northern part of the county, try Rhinebeck/Red Hook Taxi Dispatch Service (845-876-2010).

TRAIN: A train ride along the Hudson River is an exceptionally scenic way to get to and from Dutchess County. Departing from New York City's Penn Station, Amtrak (800-USA-RAIL) makes stops in Poughkeepsie and Rhinecliff.

Metro-North Railroad's Harlem Line makes several stops in the interior of Dutchess County, and its Hudson Line stops daily in Beacon, New Hamburg, and Poughkeepsie. For schedule and fare information, call 800-METRO-INFO; in New York City, call 212-532-4900.

See more info on transportation

If you're planning to dine at the Culinary Institute (and any first-time visitor to Dutchess County should be), bear in mind that same-day reservations are generally available on weekdays, but not weekends (Fridays included). The months of September and October also tend to be especially popular, while winter sees slightly fewer visitors passing through. (The CIA is also closed for three weeks of every July.)

For those planning to come by car, take heed: the Taconic State Parkway is generally smooth sailing, but several of the other connecting roads in Dutchess probably handle more volume, these days, than they were originally meant to. Budget a little extra travel time in case you do run into traffic.

http://www.dutchesstourism.com/index.asp - Dutchess County Tourism

http://www.co.dutchess.ny.us/QuickLinks/Transportation.htm - Dutchess County Online's guide to public transportation

For a detailed map of Dutchess County, click here