AN OUTDOOR PLAYGROUND
Because Delaware County's most obvious asset is its stunning natural beauty, some visitors may be ready to hit the trail as soon as they arrive here. But whether you feel like scaling a 3,100-foot peak or casting a line anywhere within 700 miles of trout streams, the area has so many possibilities that you may not quite know where to start! We list a few of the most popular outdoor destinations below—but also recommend you contact the Delaware County Chamber of Commerce at 800-642-4443.

A good chunk of the Catskill Forest Preserve, state property designated to remain "forever wild," sits in the southeastern side of the county. Recreational opportunities in the Preserve include hiking, camping, hunting, fishing, and snowmobiling. A good half-dozen state parks and forests are scattered around Delaware County as well, and campers can also choose among twenty locations open on a seasonal basis.

Other hiking options include the Catskill Scenic Trail, which runs along the West Branch on a 19-mile converted stretch of a NY Central Railroad line; the Trail's exceptionally gentle grade makes it an easy trek for hikers of any experience level. The Nature Conservancy's West Branch Preserve, in Hamden, will let you choose between a moderate 0.7-mile "blue trail" and a more challenging 2-mile "orange trail."

Don't feel like putting on the hiking boots? The Stone Tavern Farm, in Roxbury, is dedicated to horseback riding, offering lessons, boarding, trail rides, and a summer horse camp for youngsters. Delaware County has miles of trails to explore on horseback, and it's also home to Bear Spring Mountain State Park, New York State's only campground specifically designed for use by horseback riders.

If you're a New York City resident, and want to see where your drinking water comes from, or if you're just in the mood for a wonderfully scenic ride, drive along the Delaware's East Branch to where it becomes the Pepacton Reservoir, on Route 30. Because virtually all this area is protected watershed, development is strictly limited—so spare a moment to thank Delaware County's residents for being conscientious stewards of the environment!

Speaking of water—the western Catskills abound in streams, rivers, and reservoirs, so whether you want to canoe, kayak, or fish, there are dozens of locations for you to explore. A convenient one-stop shop for all these activities is Al's Sport Store, in Downsville: fishermen can pick up tackle, bait, and licenses, and you can also rent canoes and kayaks.

Don't forget that Delaware County offers no shortage of wintertime activities, either. Downhill skiers can hit the slopes at Plattekill and, just outside the county limits, Belleayre Mountain (the highest ski-able peak in the Catskills). You can cross-country ski and snowshoe at the Catskill Forest Preserve, among other spots, and there are dozens of miles of snowmobile trails around the country. So bundle up, suit up, and come on up!

RURAL RHYTHMS
A museum dedicated to American's industrial past, East Meredith's Hanford Mills Museum is still a working saw and grist mill. Founded in 1846, the mill grew to include a feed mill, woodworking shop, and hardware store, and in 1898 provided the surrounding town with its first electricity! A variety of events, exhibits, and workshops bring this history to life; a nature trail and picnic site overlook the mill pond, too, so don't be shy about bringing your lunch along!

ÎFess up—do you know the difference between a "laying hen" and a "frying hen?" If you don't, tours at the Stone and Thistle Farm (left) start at 1:00 pm every Sunday afternoon in the summer. Dedicated to the practice of sustainable farming, this is a real working farm, not a museum. The animals alone are reason enough to bring the kids÷at Stone and Thistle they can see chickens, goats, cows, pigs, sheep, and, at last count, approximately ten dogs! And if you're feeling hungry by the end of the tour (and who wouldn't be?), a goats' milk creamery is also part of the premises, and visitors can pick up anything from cheese to fudge to take home with them.

If you're curious to delve deeper into present-day farming life, the County Fair, held in Walton every August, features tractor pulls and other real-deal events. Classic Americana of another sort rolls through the area in the annual Ice Cream Run, a motorcycling fundraiser for local children with urgent medical needs. Held in the last weekend of July, and growing every year, the ride gets its motor running in Hamden and winds up and down local mountain roads before finishing up in Hancock with live music, fireworks, and a barbecue.

ART, MUSIC, AND BOOKS—LOTS OF BOOKS
For culture hounds, a number of attractions in the northeastern part of the county are all within easy driving distance of one another. In East Meredith, there's always something interesting going on at the West Kortright Centre. This former Scottish Presbyterian Church now houses a performing arts center where you can see intimate musical performances throughout the summer, in a range of genres: on any given night you might catch a visiting string quartet or a pop troubador like Colin Hay. The Centre's Shakespeare in the Valley theater workshop for kids culminates every summer in a fully-staged outdoor Shakespeare play that's a must-see for locals, weekenders, and visitors alike.

Music lovers should also know about Friends of Music in Stamford, which presents a wide-ranging series of classical concerts every May through December, as well as the Honest Brook Music Festival, which stages performances in its Delhi barn. Just outside Delaware County, to the east, the Belleayre Music Festival presents big-name concerts under the stars, on Belleayre Mountain, all summer long.

The "book village" that recently sprung up in the town of Hobart has made it a destination for book lovers from around the world. But whether you're a committed collector or just in the market for a good vacation read, this cluster of five used bookstores rewards a visit. Start with the mighty BiblioBarn (left), located a few miles west of town on Roses Brook Road, and then head east on Rte. 10 (parallel to the river) until you reach Hobart. There you'll find, in close proximity, Adams' Antiquarian Book Shop, The Library Shop, The Hobart Book Mart, and Blenheim Hill Book Shop. Hard-core browsers, you may never leave!

The village of Roxbury is worth a visit for the main drag alone, lined as it is with shade trees, stately old homes, and the historic 1893 Gould Church. But Main Street is also where you'll find Kirkside Park, a 14-acre gem adjoining the Delaware River. The splendid grounds and perennial gardens are an attraction in their own right, but in summer the Park is also home to the Roxbury Nine, a baseball club that plays the game the old-fashioned way. That's right÷baggy flannel uniforms, no gloves (ouch!), and even the occasional handlebar mustache! And just outside of town, the John Burroughs Homestead and Woodchuck Lodge is a historic site dedicated to preserving the great nature writer and conservationist's legacy. Learn more about Burroughs' life and work or just ramble around and get in touch with your own inner naturalist.

With all the artists relocating to Delaware or just visiting, it's no surprise that there's a thriving gallery scene here, too. In Hamden, The Auk's exhibition space doubles as a live music and film venue. Two galleries now call Andes home: Chance-Randall features new exhibitions throughout the year, by artists working in a variety of media, while Blink showcases not only visual art but also jewelry and stained glass. The Enderlin Gallery in Roxbury exhibits painting and smaller-scale sculpture year-round, and in Margaretville the East Branch and Ken Orton galleries present a mix of traditional-rural and contemporary painters.

Last but not least, we have to add that the relative absence of chain stores in Delaware County makes shopping here a special treat. In Delhi, the county seat, Stewart's Clothing Store provides a unique old-timey retail experience—here you'll find mens' Stetson hats and "notions," for starters. Similar treasures await in Andes, where shops like Paisley's Country Gallery, Mercantile, and Brooke's Variety offer a unique mix of antique and contemporary items—these are the stores to hit for gifts you won't find anyplace else. Right down Andes' main road, meanwhile, the Delaware Trading Post has a fresh take on items for the home and hearth, while Tay Home enjoys a growing reputation for its blended seasonal teas.

(Note: The village of Margaretville, also in Delaware County, offers enough possibilities to warrant its own EscapeMaker profile! Read up on Margaretville.)

When it's time to rest your head at night, Delaware County has everything from campgrounds to bed and breakfasts to full-service resorts. The following prompts are meant to give you a sense of the range of choices available.

In Delhi, The Buena Vista Motel, the county's only triple-A rated motel, is walkable from Main Street and the bus depot.

Anyone with a sense of fun and an appreciation for comfort will enjoy The Roxbury Motel (pictured left), in Roxbury, where the rooms are done up in eye-popping colors and stylish mod furnishings. The "Austin Powers Suite" is especially popular with families. (And don't forget, in the winter, the Roxbury's location makes it exceptionally convenient to Ski Plattekill and stay-and-ski deals.)

Ever stayed in a "tree house yurt" before? At the 70-acre Harmony Hill Lodging and Retreat Center, in East Meredith, these novel lodgings come fully furnished, with a full kitchen and private bath. Guests can walk a natural stone labyrinth and partake of the yoga and massage offered on-site.

In addition to offering horseback rides (see above), the Stone Tavern Farm, just outside Roxbury, offers both traditional bed and breakfast accommodations and "deluxe catered camping"—the latter lets you ride your horse or an all-terrain-vehicle to a scenic tent campsite that's already set up for you!

Other nearby cloices include Middle Brook Bed & Breakfast in Davenport, Andes Hotel in Andes, and A House Around the Bend in Bovina Center. For nightly, weekly, or monthly rentals, try Catskill Ski House in Fleischmanns.

See more info on lodging

Sometimes it seems as if half the restaurants in Delaware County are founded by urban refugees to this neck of the woods—and that's very much to a visitor's benefit, since it often leads to creative and varied menus. (Would you have guessed that there are three places you can get sushi in Delhi alone?) And because so many of these restauranteurs are committed to locally-grown products, it's a safe bet you'll enjoy fresh ingredients regardless of what you order.

In Andes, Cassie's Kitchen is an unbeatable place to start the day: Tuck into the tall stack of pancakes, enjoy the friendly service, and pick up some local gossip. Just across the way, the Slow Down Café emphasizes organic and locally-grown produce in a friendly relaxed atmosphere, a gourmet pantry you can buy from, and pies and cakes that are a must on any party planner's list. The Andes Hotel (left) also features an inventive, regularly changing seasonal menu: visit in the wintertime and you might be treated to a delicious spicy elk chili, for instance.

Delhi's classy Quarter Moon Café mixes traditional and more adventurous fare with an emphasis on healthy eating; vegetarian options are available. (If you like what you've had, be sure to stop into the health food store right next door on your way out!) And, as noted above, sushi has even come to the hills, with Tuna III bringing their successful menu over from Ithaca.

Hamden's Lucky Dog Farm Store makes an excellent lunch bet; we loved the panini sandwiches. Here, too, all items are organic, and frequently arrive straight from the owners' farm.

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In Delhi, the Quarter Moon CafÈ doubles as a popular hangout with live music. Grab a barstool at the Andes Hotel and you might never get up—the free popcorn at the bar is addictive, and that's even before you've seen the list of microbrews.

Equally popular with locals, weekenders, the Public Lounge (left) in Roxbury is one cocktail lounge that manages to be cozy and hip at the same time. The Pomegranate Martini is a must for newcomers, and even the bathrooms are cool (just see if they aren't!). Up in East Meredith, meanwhile, outdoor dance parties at the West Kortright Centre take place against a beautiful hillside backdrop.

See more info on nightlife

Air:
Delaware County is roughly equidistant (1 to 2 hours' drive) between Albany International Airport (518-869-3021) and the Greater Binghamton Airport (607-763-4471).

Avis (800-331-1212), Budget (800-527-0700) and Enterprise (800 Rent-A-Car) all rent from Albany. From Binghamton, travelers can choose between Avis (800-831-2847) and Hertz (800-654-3131).

Another option is the Stewart International Airport (845-564-2100), located just west of Newburgh, NY, at the intersections of I-84 and I-87. Avis (800-331-1212), Enterprise (800-736-8222), and Hertz (800-654-3131) all rent cars from Stewart Airport.

Bike:
Adirondack Trailways (see below, under Bus) accepts bicycles. Bicycles must be securely fastened and wrapped in a box, canvas or other substantial material, so that if the bike is stored with luggage, there will be no damage to other items in the baggage compartment. In addition, a $20.00 fee will be assessed for bikes stored with luggage. If there is an empty storage compartment under the bus, no fee will be assessed. Also, there is no guarantee that bicycles will be accepted by connecting bus carriers. Call Adirondack at 800-858-8555 for more detailed information.

Bus:
Adirondack Trailways (800-858-8555) offers daily service between New York City's Port Authority and Delhi, where the bus drops you at the Country Store and Kitchen, 2 Kingston Street (right off the main street and near the Chamber of Commerce office). Bear in mind that while Delhi itself makes a viable car-less getaway for 24 hours or so, practically speaking you will need a vehicle in order to reach Delaware's other towns and attractions.

Regular bus service is also provided to and from the towns of Andes (Cassie's Kitchen, 85 Main St.), Fleischmanns (Sam's Country Store, 1293 Main St.), and Margaretville (at the Margaretville Motel, Rt. 28; for more details, click here).

Car:
Delaware County is located roughly 2-1/2 to 3 hours' drive from New York City, and 4 to 5 hours' drive from either Boston or Philadelphia.

Visitors from the NY-NJ metro area have two options for getting here. The first is to take 1-87 North to Exit 16 (Harriman), to NYS Route 17 West, which takes you to the Hancock-Downsville area, in the southwestern part of the county. Or, continue on I-87 North to Exit 19 (Kingston) to NYS Route 28 West (Pine Hill). This scenic ride on Route 28 passes through Woodstock, Phoenicia, and the Belleayre Mountain region on its way to Margaretville, Arkville, and Delhi.

Car Rental:
Enterprise (800-325-8007) and Rent-a-Wreck (800-388-4684) both rent vehicles from Oneonta, just a few miles north of Delaware County. Visitors can also rent from Breakey Motors (607-865-6545) in Walton.

Taxi:
Ground transportation in Delaware County is available via Bon Voyage & Leatherstocking Limousine (607-432-9509), and Sidney Cab (607-563-1187).

See more info on transportation

Newcomers to the western Catskills need to be aware that cell phone service in the area is spotty at best. Plan accordingly, because you're leaving the realm of 24/7, instant communications behind (but then, isn't that one of the things you came up here to get away from?). And, speaking of communications, don't feel shy about asking locals questions; they're generally more than willing to help out a visitor!

Fall foliage fanatics, take note: the leaf-peeping season here gets underway by the last week of September, and has usually peaked by mid-October.

http://www.delawarecounty.org/ - Delaware County Chamber of Commerce

For a detailed map of Delaware County, click here