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 If
you want great seafood and a "breather" from Manhattan,
go to City Island. A small New England town in all but name,
with a long nautical tradition, City Island makes a perfect
day or overnight trip. You might even forget where you are for
the day!
The
Island was originally inhabited by the Siwanoy Indians and became
a thriving shipbuilding center during the 1800s. Unfortunately,
with the invention of
Fiberglass, the wooden boat builders suffered a major blow as
new and improved boating technologies swallowed their livelihood.
Nowadays,
recreational boating keeps the island active, as does the flock
of Manhattanites to the multitude of shops and seafood restaurants.
Long-time residents take pride in the culturally diverse crowd
that City Island draws.
There
are no public beaches, and all of the city's side streets dead
end at mostly private marinas. There is, however, plenty to
do and plenty to eat!
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THINGS
TO DO
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See full
list of activities and businesses
City
Island Avenue is the main drag and runs the length of
the Island. The entire avenue takes about 25 minutes to
walk, but the bus stops frequently every few blocks—so
if you get tired of walking, hop on and use that unlimited
Metro Card. We took the bus to the very last stop,
at the tip of the Island, and worked our way back (recommended
if you need to walk off a great meal).
After
lunch, we strolled back up the avenue to window shop.
A major eye-opener on our tour was Exotiqa International
Arts & Crafts, where we found an eclectic,
often whimsical collection of products, toys, jewelry,
and spiritual and metaphysical artifacts from around the
world. Whether you're looking for wood carvings from West
Africa, glass perfume bottles from Egypt, or dresses from
Morocco and Indonesia, Exotiqa just might stock them!
Farther
up City Island, peek into all the antique shops and thrift
shops around Hawkins Street. Stop in at Wooden Ships
Music, Corona's Gift Shop and The Focal Point
Art Gallery.
One
block in on the right and parallel to City Island Avenue
is Minneford Avenue, where you'll find The New York
Sailing Center and Yacht Club. Steve Card and his
family have been running the Center for 30 years.
Enroll
in the Sailing Center's three-day crash course in sailing
(don't crash!) starting at $445.00. After you complete
the course, you'll be eligible to rent the Center's boats
at a discount. (Since City Island is so close, New Yorkers
can either visit on three consecutive days or make a long
weekend out of their course.)
Before the bridge out of town, stop in at Jack's Bait
and Tackle. Jack will rent you a boat and fishing
rods for $59.99 a day on weekends (6:00 am - 5:00 pm)
and $49.99 during the week. He'll even give you a map
and tell you where the fish are biting.
Catty
corner from Jack's is Captain Mike's Diving Services.
Cap'n Mike's 5-star training center offers certification,
night dives, equipment rentals, and special boat trips.
He also offers ride-alongs for non-divers for $25.00.
If
seafood isn't your bag, but you love the water, try The
Boat Livery on the other side of the bridge. Popeye
would feel quite at home in this bar/bait and tackle shop.
For the non-fisherman, Tony will rent you a rowboat 7
days a week for only $20.00, and if you feel more adventurous,
a motorboat for $45.00 ($55.00 on weekends).
If
you want some context for your surroundings, the City
Island Nautical Museum has delightful memorabilia pertaining
to yachts and sailing ships, Native American artifacts,
and a wealth of historical information on the Island.
Other
offerings include the Turtle Cove Golf Complex
(a short walk from the first bus stop over the bridge
on the way out of town), featuring golf and mini-golf
year-round!
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LODGING
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 For
overnight stays, we recommend the harborside Le Refuge
Inn (pictured left), as it provides the only overnight
accommodations on the Island. It's a beautiful 8-room
French country inn and restaurant, open for lunch and
dinner Wednesday through Sunday, and Sunday for brunch.
Rates are $125 a night for 2 people and $115 a night for
1 person. (Owner and chef Pierre St. Denis offers a fine
prix-fixe menu for lunch and dinner as well.)
See full
list of lodgings
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DINING
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At
the last bus stop, you'll find plenty of great seafood
places for lunch, like The Shrimp Box or Sammy's
Fish Box—or dine on the water at the "no
frills but great seafood" joints like Tony's
or Johnny's. We enjoyed shrimp and scallops while
watching the boats and seagulls pass by.
Farther
up City Island, you'll pass The Tree House and
Lickety Split Ice Cream. Next, you'll pass The
Original Crab Shanty, a great lunch or dinner spot.
Make reservations for dinner, though—hostess Sharon
says it's a favorite with locals. Across the street, Artie's
also offers seafood as well as Italian specialties for
lunch and dinner. For the ultimate harbor side dining
experience, try The Harbor Restaurant. Owner Bill
is serious about his seafood!
See full
list of dining
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NIGHTLIFE
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The
Black Whale Lounge has nightly live music, blues
jams, and karaoke. The Shrimp Box showcases
live blues Thursday nights at 8:00. The tavern Sixmilecross
hosts a variety of live rock, blues, and jazz music, too.
Finally,
The Starving Artist Cafe & Gallery
hosts singers, poetry readings, jazz quartets, and more,
with different performers appearing every weekend.
See full
list of nightlife
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TRANSPORTATION
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SUBWAY/BUS:
Take the #6 subway train to the last stop in the Bronx
(Pelham Bay) then transfer to the #29 bus which stops
downstairs at the entrance to the station. In 10 minutes
you'll be transported over 2 bridges to City Island.
Fare: $2.00.
Travel time: Appx. 50 minutes by subway or bus
from midtown.
TROLLEY:
In addition to the #29 bus mentioned above, the Seaside
Trolley runs from the Pelham Bay station to City
Island every Friday night in the months of May, June,
and July. (The rest of the year, it only runs on the first
Friday of the month.) The trolley departs from Pelham
Bay Station at 5:30 and makes various stops on the Island
in order for visitors to browse the shops, grab a bite
to eat, and then hop back on the trolley in time for its
10:00 pm return to Pelham Bay Station. For more information,
call the Island Chamber of Commerce at 718-885-9100.
Fare: Free!
Travel time: under 15 minutes, one way.
CAR:
Triborough Bridge to Bruckner Expressway, merge with I-95.
Take exit 8B (City Island/Orchard Beach). Make a right
at the first light on City Island Road. Go around the
traffic circle and over City Island Bridge—you'll
be on City Island Avenue.
Travel time: 20 minutes by car.
See full
list of transportation options
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TRAVEL
TIPS
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Packing
Extras: sunglasses, suntan lotion, camera, and bathing
suit (just in case...).
If
you're planning to stay overnight, we recommend you get
off at the first bus stop in City Island, just over the
bridge, to check your bags—Le Refuge Inn is directly
opposite.
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WEATHER
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