THINGS TO DO

Accessible by the Long Island Railroad, the historic village of Stony Brook is a living museum filled with quaint recollections of the region's colorful past and opportunities to explore its natural surroundings. Many attractions have seasonal or limited hours so it's a good idea to call ahead.

One of the village's main attractions is the Long Island Museum and its internationally renowned collection of carriages. The museum's Dorothy and Ward Melville Carriage House is home to more than 250 horse-drawn vehicles - which range from elaborate firefighting wagons to sleighs and even a peanut vendor's cart - and related paraphernalia. The museum, which is closed on Mondays, also features a permanent collection of carved hunting decoys, 15 rooms displaying miniature period interiors from the 17th through 20th centuries and traveling exhibitions of American art.

Just up Main Street sits the Stony Brook Grist Mill (left), a 252-year-old working mill staffed by volunteers who guide visitors through the milling process and the importance of the site in local history. The mill, which was built in 1751 to replace an earlier version built in 1699 but destroyed by a flood, is said to have supplied flour to Gen. George Washington's troops during the Revolutionary War. In the summer the Mill is open Wednesday through Sunday from noon to 4:30 p.m.; in April, May and September through the first Sunday in December, hours are Saturday and Sunday from noon to 4:30 p.m.

A short walk up Main Street brings you to Stony Brook's Village Center and Village Green. In the late 1930s, philanthropist Ward Melville essentially bought the area and recreated it as a neo-classical village that includes the United State's first automobile-accessible shopping center. The center includes a mix of upscale stores such as Jones of New York, Godiva Chocolatier and Talbots, as well as local cafes and flower, home furnishing and gift shops. At the heart of the center sits the Stony Brook Post Office, which is crowned by a mechanical eagle that flaps its 12-foot wings every hour on the hour.

Just across the street from the Village Center catch the Discovery, a 35-passenger pontoon boat that takes visitors on one and one-half hour cruises of Stony Brook Harbor and the surrounding wetlands. Naturalists or students from Stony Brook's Marine Sciences Research Center accompany the cruises, pointing out wildlife and historical features along the way -- including the Old Field Lighthouse, left). The Discovery's schedule is determined by the tides, so call ahead!

A quick 10-minute drive east brings you to Port Jefferson; a scenic waterfront village nestled at the foot of seven tree-covered hills. Once a bustling commercial port and shipbuilding center, "Port Jeff," as it's called by locals, is home to dozens of quirky shops, historic homes, outstanding restaurants and eclectic art galleries. Accessible by the Long Island Railroad, Port Jefferson's downtown district offers a mix of interesting shops and boutiques. Stores selling fine jewelry, pottery, chocolate, antiques, crafts and even wines from Long Island's famous vineyards line Main Street and a series of squares off its side roads.

Just off Main Street on Prospect Street you'll find the Mather House Museum, which offers a glimpse of what life in the area was like during the 1800s. Once home to shipbuilder John Mather and his family, the museum features maritime artifacts and exhibits, period furnishings and a clock museum displaying 250 timepieces from the private collection of village resident Tex Spinney.

To see more historic buildings, stop by the Port Jefferson Chamber of Commerce office in the John Roe House at 118 West Broadway for historic walking tour guides -produced by the Historical Society of Greater Port Jefferson. To sample Port Jeff's maritime flavor, visit the harbor, where you can board the Martha Jefferson, an 85-foot paddleboat that offers regularly scheduled sightseeing and dinner cruise. Go fishing on Long Island Sound aboard the Port Jeff Ace or Prowler, or take a trip on a commuter ferry that runs a regular daily schedule between the village and Bridgeport, Connecticut.

In December, Port Jefferson plays host to the annual Charles Dickens Festival. See townspeople don period attire and carriages ply the streets as the entire village transforms into a Victorian town. On summer Thursday nights, local galleries host a weekly Art Walk. Visitors can meet local artists while sipping wine and nibbling on cheese.

Not many know that Brookhaven is a golfer's paradise, with 12 public and five private courses scattered throughout the town. Public courses on the North Shore include Rolling Oaks Country Club in Rocky Point, Tall Grass Golf Club in Shoreham and Heatherwood Golf Club in Centerreach.

Brookhaven is on an island, after all, so opportunities to get on the water abound. Among the marinas offering charters and rentals are Ralph's Fishing Station and Marina in Mt. Sinai or Capt. Ray Kelly in Shoreham.

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LODGING

Places to stay in Brookhaven run the gamut from quaint bed and breakfasts in Victorian houses to grand inns and modern hotels. If you're looking for charm, consider staying in Port Jefferson, home to nearly a dozen homey bed and breakfasts.

Stony Brook's 26-room Three Village Inn, located on Main Street right next to the Village Center, exudes history and charm as servers in the Inn's three dining rooms, wear period clothing. Seven rooms in the original section of the Inn, built in 1751, are filled with colonial furnishings. It's within easy walking distance of the village's main attractions.

DINING

Stony Brook's Pentimento (93 Main Street) combines creative pasta, seafood and meat dishes, with occasional art shows and views of the Village's bustling main drag.

Pace's Steak House, in downtown Port Jefferson, is a meat lovers' paradise. Historic dÈcor and photos give it a plush feel; a cigar room rounds out the upscale atmosphere.

Sea Basin, on Route 25A in Rocky Point, is a local landmark and institution. What it lacks in atmosphere it makes up for with stellar food. Among locals it's a favorite meeting place.

For lunch, Green Cactus in Stony Brook offers fresh burritos, tacos, savory salsas and other Mexican fare. Toast, situated in downtown Port Jefferson (open only for breakfast and lunch), offers a tasty selection of fresh juices and fruit drinks.

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NIGHTLIFE

In Port Jefferson, Theatre Three is a live-equity theatre located in a 125-year-old building that is open year round. Performances range from musicals and dramas to original productions of fairy tales for kids.

The Staller Center for the Arts (left)
on the campus of the State University of New York Stony Brook has a 1,000-seat Main Stage Theatre and a smaller Recital Hall. Performances range from concerts by the Moscow Philharmonic to the Ballet Nacional de Cuba.

For less formal live-music settings, check out the summer concert series put on by Stony Brook Village Center and the Port Jefferson Village Recreation Department.

Paula Jean's in Setauket, is a local hot spot featuring live New Orleans-style jazz, atmosphere and cuisine. Port Jazz, on Main Street in Port Jefferson, is the place to hear traditional jazz, while the Three Village Inn offers a piano bar on Friday and Saturday nights.

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TRANSPORTATION

CAR: Brookhaven is accessible by the I-495 (the Long Island Expressway), Rt. 27 (the Sunrise Highway), Rt. 25 (the Jericho Turnkpike/Middle Country Road) and numerous smaller local highways, like 25A along the north shore.

FERRY: The Bridgeport and Port Jefferson Steamboat Company operates frequent ferry service between Bridgeport, Connecticut, and Port Jefferson. South Shore Ferries to Fire Island, operate out of Patchogue, Sayville and Bellport (with limited service) to Davis Park and Watch Hill in Fire Island - be sure to call ahead for schedule. The Cross Sound Ferry, out of Orient Point provides access to Long Island from the east.

TRAIN: Although getting around Brookhaven is best done by car, you can get to various villages by train. Long Island Railroad offers regular service via its three lines: North Shore stops are Stony Brook and Port Jefferson; the central line stops in Ronkonkoma, Medford and Yaphank; and the South Shore stations are Patchogue, Bellport and Mastic-Shirley. Most stations are a short taxi ride to village downtowns or accommodations.

BUS: Suffolk County Transit operates bus service throughout Brookhaven.

AIR: Two commercial airports offer flights to Brookhaven. Long Island's McArthur Airport is located at the western edge of the town; Brookhaven Airport is farther east between Yaphank and Mastic-Shirley.

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LINKS

Town of Brookhaven

MAP

For driving directions click here