THINGS TO DO

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Spend a day in Cambridge! Peruse the many fine shops and antique stores (left) and while you are at it, absorb a little history! Visitors wanting to find out as much as they can about Harriet Tubman and her journey to become the Moses of her people should start at the Harriet Tubman Headquarters. It offers abundant literature, a video presentation and details about specialized tours of more than 20 spots in African Americans' history in Dorchester County.

Questions about Dorchester County's nautical history should be taken straight to Earl and Shirley Brannock at the Brannock Maritime Museum. Shirley gave us a tour of the museum and a lively and fascinating glimpse into the area's oyster wars and maritime past. The museum's library is world-renowned and the Brannock's regularly receive calls and emails from around the globe about their extensive collection. Their knowledge comes from first hand experience as well as a long line of family connections to this area.

Named after Jim Richardson, a famous Chesapeake boatbuilder, the James B. Richardson Maritime Museum is a watermen's museum highlighting the Eastern Shore wooden boat building industry. Visitors will enjoy boat models, including skipjacks, bugeyes, pungys, log canoes, rams and other merchant vessels. Plans are underway to build a waterfront educational center that will include hands on exhibits, lectures and more.

Nearby is a true living museum: The Nathan of Dorchester. Built and run by local volunteers, the Nathan is a skipjack crafted to commemorate the boat-building legacy of Dorchester. Passengers get a close up look at how oysters were harvested and can help raise the sails. Available for private charter and special event cruises, the Nathan is also involved in annual Skipjack races.

It was Richardson who designed the Spocott Windmill, which sits on a complex along with a one and one-half story colonial tenant house built in 1800, a one-room school house built in 1870 and a country store museum. The English style post windmill is named the "George L." in honor of the late U.S. Senator George L. Radcliffe.

The Senator's son, also George Radcliffe, now oversees the complex and believes it is the only museum that's open 365 days a year. Radcliffe's saying is to "please touch" anything. And visitors take this to heart. It is well worn and well loved; antique items often show up unannounced adding to the charm and authenticity of the place. Visitors can climb inside the windmill, which can still grind corn. The small tenant house evokes simpler days when families shared one room. Kids will love the upstairs attic bedroom that feels like a secret hideaway reachable only by ducking up the home's steep steps.

Back in Cambridge, we drove along historic High Street and enjoyed the large 18th- and 19th-century homes that still grace this seaport town. Along the way, we stopped at the Dorchester Arts Center, where any contemporary artist will find a home away from home. The Center includes an art shop and with an art school for all ages. It has a true community feeling as students' work adorns a small gallery, which also offers some items for sale. In the warm months, the Center scares up a good time with fun ghost walk tours.

Nearby is the Dorchester County Historical Society, which makes its home at the Meredith House. The 1760s Georgian home displays artifacts and exhibits on the seven Maryland governors associated with the county. Visitors can walk through a child's room complete with antique dolls and toys. Defying time, quilts made in the late 1700s adorn two of the home's beds.

Adjacent to the house, the Neild Museum gives visitors a look at tools, kitchen utensils and equipment used in the county. It also features an extensive collection of agricultural, maritime, industrial, Native American artifacts and a growing decoy exhibit. Just outside, visitors can tour an 18th-century strong house and a combination wheelwright/blacksmith shop as well as enjoy formal herbal gardens.

Just 12 miles south of Cambridge, Blackwater National Wildlife Refuge seems a world away. A visitor's center with exhibits, an auditorium and gift shop introduces visitors to more than 27,000 acres of woodland, tidal marsh, ponds and managed cropland. Lucky nature lovers might spy the endangered Delmarva fox squirrel or the bald eagle that make their home here. Despite some cold weather, we saw countless birds and enjoyed the quiet and peaceful drive down county roads towards the Refuge.

On our way to the Refuge, we stopped by the marker that marks the place Harriet Tubman was born and the Bucktown Village Store where she committed her first act of defiance. Today, the Bucktown Village Foundation operates the shop, which is open upon request. The store also offers tours and rents bikes, canoes and kayaks. Bicyclists will revel in the 25-mile loop that runs through and around the Refuge. It begins at the Blackwater Visitor's Center, leads through the refuge's nature trail and traces its outer limits.

With 1,700 miles of shoreline at their disposal, visitors to the area should spend some time on the water. Dorchester County offers options for small and large groups. Channel Charters Historical Cruises and Wet Adventures take groups up to six. The Nathan of Dorchester can carry 25 passengers plus crew. For up to 50 people, try the Cambridge Lady Cruises and Tours or Sawyers Charters and Tours. For large groups, consider the paddle wheelers the Dorothy Meagan and Choptank River Queen.

(And speaking of the Choptank, visitors to this area who can't get enough of this winding waterway may want to consider following it all the way up into adjacent Caroline County.)

With less than 100 residents, Elliot Island provides visitors a scenic drive featuring wetlands and wildlife.

Legend has it that Hoopers' Island, home to some of the County's earliest settlements, was bought from the Indians in exchange for blankets. Today, its three islands host working watermen villages.

Finally, on Taylor's Island, guests will see one-of-a kind homes, schoolhouses, a museum and churches, including a large number of sites on the National Historic Register.

PLANT TOURS

One of our very favorite stops was the Brooks Barrel Company, one of the last three remaining slack cooperages in the United States, where local pine logs are turned into different-sized barrels in a matter of minutes. The mammoth, impressive machines in this plant were made in the late 1800s and early 1900s and still work hard. Today you'll find Brooks Barrels in coffee shops, garden centers and grocery stores—one even made it on the set of The Pirates of the Caribbean! Tours are available for adults and children ages 10 and up.

Travelers in the mood for more tours should try the J.M. Clayton Company. Here at the oldest working crab processing plant in the world, the Clayton company packages and ships approximately 30,000 pounds of crabs and crabmeat each day from April through November. And you can't think seafood without thinking of the Phillips family. In 1956 Shirley and Brice Phillips opened their first restaurant in Ocean City; now the franchise is located all over the Mid-Atlantic region. Visitors can tour the Phillips crab processing plant, and learn about crabbing by experiencing hands-on crab techniques.

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LODGING

Like Dorchester County itself, the area's lodging is diverse enough to suit many needs and guests.

We stayed at the Days Inn & Suites (left) in Cambridge. A clean hotel with an outdoor heated pool and 50 spacious rooms, the Days Inn is economical and offers a substantial continental breakfast. Our suite had a microwave, mini-fridge and sitting area and was very close to shopping, restaurants and sights. All 50 of the hotel's rooms offer high-speed Internet access.

A destination all its own, the new Hyatt Regency Chesapeake Bay Golf Resort, Spa and Marina, is pampering personified. The area's first full-service, year-round resort, the Hyatt features an 18,000 square foot European health spa, a glass-enclosed pool, an 18-hole Keith Foster-designed championship golf course and a 150-slip marina. There's also an 18-acre nature preserve with guided hikes and wildlife observation and an outdoor pool complete with a water slide and children's recreation center. The resort offers 42,000 square feet of event space, a full service business center and six restaurants and lounges.

Located one and a half miles from the historical district and a half-mile from charter fishing services, the Best Value Inn is a two-story property with 80 guest rooms. It features a restaurant and meeting facilities.

An indoor pool and Jacuzzi mean year round fun and relaxation at the Holiday Inn Express in Cambridge. Minutes from golf courses, shopping outlets, marinas and restaurants, this property boasts 86 guest rooms, deluxe continental breakfast and meeting space for up to 200.

Earl and Shirley Brannock are veritable fonts of Dorchester County knowledge. They are the proprietors of two private brick cottages among three acres of gardens that make up Commodore's Cottages B&B. Situated on site of the Brannock Maritime Museum, the cottages have full kitchens and sleep up to five people. Breakfast is served in guests' own cottages.

Overlooking the Choptank River, consider Lodgecliffe on the Choptank, a bed and breakfast. The four-bedroom Tavern House in Vienna, has a view of the Nanticoke River.

A Queen Anne style house located on historic High Street, Cambridge House offers 6 guest rooms with fireplaces and private baths. Spacious rooms with high ceilings are outfitted with queen or king size beds.

Guests can also try the eight-room Glasgow Inn (circa 1760) in Cambridge or the North Fork B & B in Hurlock. For campers, try the Madison Bay Campground in Madison, or Taylor's Island Family Campground on Taylor's Island.

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DINING

The good news about dining in Dorchester County is it's plentiful, and for the most part, very affordable. There's everything from the regular fast food establishments and family restaurants to lunch and dinner cruises and six different restaurants on the Hyatt property.

For pasta, hot sandwiches and salads, try the Canvasback Restaurant & Pub, closed Sundays. The Portside Seafood Restaurant overlooks Cambridge Creek and specializes in local seafood. On nice days, you can dine outside (but the Portside is closed Mondays).

Snapper's Waterfront Cafe is a casual eatery with a great view of Cambridge Creek. We tried the crab appetizer sampler and had to skip dessert, we were so contentedly full!

Dine at the Suicide Bridge Restaurant along Cabin Creek or enjoy a lunch or dinner cruise (left) on the Dorothy Megan or The Choptank River Queen. The latter are reproductions of authentic 80-foot turn-of-the-century paddlewheeler riverboats.

Even locals say Ocean Odyssey's cream of crab soup is the best they've ever tasted, and Pizza Palace is sure to please every member of your group. Another family stop should be Kay's Country Kitchen, known for its good food and friendly service. Peking House and the Cambridge Diner & Restaurant are other local-recommended favorites.

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NIGHTLIFE

From local plays to karaoke, Dorchester County offers its share of nightlife. Visitors should call the Hyatt Regency to find out specific events at the resort. New on the scene is Great Slates in Cambridge Plaza, which features live music. Governors Hall at Sailwinds Park has its own concert series, often with national acts.

Also, downtown Cambridge has a Second Saturday each month when shop keepers will stay open late! Festivities include themed events, live music, raffles and door prizes.

Be sure to check the event calendar.

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TRANSPORTATION

CAR:
From D.C: Take New York Ave NW, which turns into US Route 50 East. Stay on this route across the Chesapeake Bay Bridge, continue eastbound to Cambridge.

Travel time from D.C. is 1.5 hours.

From New York: Take I-78 to I-95 South. Road name changes to New Jersey Turnpike/US-40/I-295. Continue until turn off for US 13/US 301 toward Baltimore/Dover/Norfolk. Keep right onto N. DuPont Pky. Merge onto US 301/US 13 south. Road name changes to SR-1; stay on SR-1 south at exit 148. Turn right at exit 136 onto ramp towards SR 299/US 13/Odessa/Middletown. Continue until you see signs for US 301 [SR 299]. Take ramp to SR 213; turn left. At first traffic light, turn left onto US Route 50 East and continue on this route to Cambridge.

Travel time from New York: 4.5 hours.

TRAIN:
Take an Amtrak train to Baltimore. From there you can grab a free shuttle to BWI Airport where you can rent a car from all the major agencies. Fares to Baltimore start at $140 roundtrip.

BUS:
Greyhound Bus serves Cambridge, MD from various Northeast points. Travel time from New York City is 7 hours (due to layovers in various points in Delaware). Once you arrive you can call a local taxi to take you in to town or call Enterprise and they will pick you up at the station. Bus fares from NYC start at $61 one way.

BIKE:
All ages will enjoy biking in Dorchester County. Why? Because there's so much to see and the roads are flat. The Visitor Center at Sailwinds Park publishes a brochure mapping out various bicycling routes-along the Refuge, waterways, historic districts and villages-including food and rest stops. If you don't bring your own bike, try the Bucktown Village Store in Cambridge. They also rent canoes and kayaks.

AIR/CAR RENTAL:
U.S. Airways serves Salisbury Regional Airport, located 25 miles from Cambridge. The Baltimore/Washington International Airport (BWI) is Dorchester's closest large airport, about one and a half hours away. Enterprise Rental cars can be rented from airport and in Cambridge.

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LINKS

Dorchester County

MAP

For a map of Dorchester County, please click here.