Caroline County, MD — Weekend Getaway
by Patrick Gilsenan

Meandering along the banks of the historic Choptank River, and nestled among the shady elms of two state parks and thousands of acres of picturesque farmlands, Maryland's Caroline County is a great place to slow down, enjoy nature, and soak in the life of small-town America.

Located less than an hour's drive from both the Chesapeake Bay and the Atlantic Ocean, Caroline County was settled more than 200 years ago, and today retains much of the historic feel and architecture of colonial America. This rural Eastern Shore county is dotted
with quaint villages offering not only small-town charm but also plenty of opportunities for hiking, fishing, camping, boating, and just plain nature-watching.

Visitors will want to canoe the hidden coves of Tuckahoe and Martinak State Parks, glimpse nineteenth-century river life at the Choptank River Heritage Center, hike past native plants at the Adkins Arboretum, and explore small-town America in the riverside village and county seat of Denton. The county's many miles of gently winding back roads will also transport visitors deep into Caroline's rural lifestyle.

So relax, take in the view, and enjoy the slow pace and natural beauty of Caroline County!

 
  THINGS TO DO

If you're visiting the Eastern Shore, it's almost a given that you'll be at least passing through Denton, the county seat and home to the Caroline County Office of Tourism. Located inside the Caroline County Museum of Rural Life (see below), the Office of Tourism will set you up with general directions as well as with the specialized maps (biking, et cetera) referred to below. (And since you're now in a largely rural area, the importance of maps, as we all know, can hardly be overstated!)

Among Caroline County's most popular attractions is the 3,800-acre Tuckahoe State Park (pictured, below left), which offers boating on its 60-acre lake and streams, hiking, biking, and horseback riding along 15 miles of trails, as well as bass fishing, hunting, camping, and picnicking.

Canoeists and kayakers will love the park's 20 acres of open water and 40 acres of flooded woodlands, all teeming with eagles, ospreys, and beavers waiting to be discovered. A boat ramp is available for electric-powered boats, and canoes and paddleboats can be rented inside the park.

Among Tuckahoe's 15 miles of gentle, easy-to-follow trails are the 1.25-mile, creek-side Cliff Trail, which hugs Tuckahoe Creek's high banks and gives visitors great views of flooded woodlands and the remains of early settlements. A longer but less strenuous trail is the 4.5-mile Tuckahoe Valley Trail, which wanders through mature poplar and beech forests and over numerous stream crossings.

Anglers will find ample bass, catfish, and perch in the park's steams, and Tuckahoe has also designated 1,000 acres for turkey, goose, and snow goose hunting. Finally, campers will enjoy Tuckahoe's 33 electric and non-electric tent and camper campsites as well as air-conditioned cabins.

Nature lovers and amateur botanists will want to visit the 500-acre Adkins Arboretum, which is located within Tuckahoe State Park and offers three miles of gentle, surfaced trails surrounded by plants, flowers, and trees native to the Delmarva Peninsula. The Arboretum is open year-round and provides guided and self-guided audio-assisted tours.

And not to be overlooked is the tiny 107-acre Martinak State Park, nestled between the Choptank River and Watts Creek. The park's boat ramp and easy access to the Choptank River make it an ideal spot for fishermen. Martinak also offers three miles of dogwood-lined trails—great for spotting white-tailed deer, foxes, and owls! 60 electric and non-electric campsites and air-conditioned cabins, canoe rental, and picnic facilities are also available.

Fishing for Caroline County's largemouth bass, striped bass, perch, sea trout, and chain pickerel is also plentiful outside of the state parks, from numerous river access points and eight public boat ramps. Private deer-, waterfowl-, bird-, and small game-hunting on 25,000 acres of designated lands, meanwhile, can be had through local outfitter Schrader's Hunting. For those who aren't quite ready for the real thing, Schrader's also offers a 24-station sport clay course and a 3D virtual archery-hunting course.

Caroline County's rivers and streams are also ideal for glimpsing the county's wildlife and riverfront history. An 80-mile River Trail, complete with map, mile markers, and information about each stop, is available—and will transport boaters back to the county's earliest steamboat days.

biking in Caroline CountyBut the water isn't all you can tour here! Caroline County's miles and miles of picturesque, gently curving roads are also hugely popular with cyclists. A wonderful full-color, glossy cycling map (with 10 detailed routes through the county's villages, along its riverfront and into its farmlands) is available from the Caroline County Office of Tourism; the map also includes information on accommodations, restaurants, camping, and other points of interest.

Visitors will also want to soak up Caroline County's agricultural history and its distinction as a stop along the historic Underground Railroad.

The Caroline County Museum of Rural Life is one good place to start. Located in Denton, the museum allows visitors to view a complete 1824 log cabin and the parlor and upstairs loft of a circa-1787 home that have been transported to, and reconstructed inside, the museum. Historic area photos and a history of the county's involvement with the Underground Railroad are also on display.

Visitors can also learn about the country's rich river history from the Choptank River Heritage Center. The Center is housed in one of only two authentic riverfront steamboat warehouses left in Maryland, and includes a recreated steamboat passenger waiting room and agent's office. As a bonus, visitors to the Heritage Center can also view one of the Chesapeake Bay's largest preserved oystering Skipjack sailboats.

To help newcomers learn about the county's involvement with the Underground Railroad, which helped Southern slaves flee to freedom in the 1850's, a 105-mile driving tour (including adjacent Dorchester County) is available, marking the region's most significant Underground Railroad sites. Among the tour's highlights in Caroline County is the Tuckahoe Neck Meeting House, which was one of five secret Quaker meeting houses used to support the Underground Railroad.

Unique shopping opportunities also part of Caroline's charm. Among the county's most unique shops are the Greensboro Trading Company and the Livery Stable.

Greensboro Trading CompanyThe Greensboro Trading Company (pictured, left) is an eclectic art and gift shop offering the work of 175 local artisans who produce everything from photography, pottery, and jewelry to soaps, wines, and coffee. Upstairs, the shop includes a coffee and performance space and hosts classes ranging from yoga to guitar.

The Livery Stable is a big, one-of-a-kind store specializing in country-style gifts and accessories. Housed in a restored country home, behind a quaint, whitewashed wrought-iron fence, the Stable offers everything from ceramics and quilts to old-time hard candies.

Golfers are not neglected here either! Caroline County is home to the par-71 Upland Golf Club and, on Mondays, the private Caroline Country Club.

See more info on Caroline County activities and businesses

 
  LODGING

Bryant-Todd House Inn If you're planning to go on vacation here without a car, one of the best places to stay is the beautiful Bryant-Todd House Inn (left). The Inn is located directly on the banks of the Choptank River and in the center of county seat Denton. Guests are welcomed into a fireplace-warmed parlor before heading up to one of the Inn's two bedrooms. The 1880 house is European-styled with "Eastern Shore hospitality" — which encompasses ample outdoor seating where you can relax and view the gentle waters of the Choptank. A public boat ramp is two blocks away, or guests can bring canoes or kayaks to put in right from the Inn. Visitors without a car will especially enjoy the inn because it sits just one block from Denton's main square and small shopping area as well as being close to bus service to other parts of the county. Room rates include a continental breakfast. (Reservations are recommended.)

Equally stunning is Schrader's Bridgetown Manor Bed and Breakfast, near Bridgetown. Driving up the long driveway to this large, three-story county manor house and estate, with its broad columns and wide balcony, situated on 150 acres of woodlands and open fields, offers a glimpse of age-old elegance. A comfy parlor, library, and sitting room, along with large bedrooms with seating areas and private baths, await Manor guests. Guided hunting, sport clay, and archery outings are also available at the inn. (A continental breakfast is included.)

And for familiar conveniences, try the Denton's Best Western Hotel. This national chain is conveniently located along Highway 404, less than a mile from downtown Denton, and offers free breakfast, a pool, and Internet access. Rooms come equipped with microwave, refrigerator, computer data ports, and coffee makers.

See more info on Caroline County lodging


  DINING

Among Caroline County's finest restaurants is Harry's at the Goldsborough House. This casually elegant, white tablecloth restaurant specializes in East Coast seafood with lots of traditional crab dishes. Executive Chef and co-owner Jeri Wyre also prepares nightly specials such as petite beef wellington and herb roasted rack of lamb, along with regular menu items such as roasted brace of quail with cranberry walnut dressing. Diners can enjoy their meals in the cozy dining room, an outdoor patio with fireplace, or a glass-enclosed porch. The restaurant also boasts an extensive wine list and visiting chefs.

Lily PadAnd surprisingly elegant but casual is The Lily Pad Cafe and Catering (pictured, left), located just off the main square in Denton. This laid-back lunch place in a nineteenth-century schoolhouse serves a quirky and sophisticated array of sandwiches and salads, such as roast beef on ciabatta with horseradish spread and melted gorgonzola cheese and roasted Portobello mushroom with caramelized onion, roasted red pepper, melted provolone, and mayonnaise on ciabatta. Note that dinner is served on Fridays!

Also in the heart of Denton is a relative newcomer that's become a standout Sunday brunch destination—that's the Emerson House Restaurant, where students at the Chesapeake Culinary Institute prepare your food under the tutelage of the Institute's master chefs. Outdoor seating is available on the Emerson House's wide porches in the warm weather, which means you can take in a view of the Choptank River and local marina along with your crab bisque and Emerson House Burger.

If you happen to be up in northern part of Caroline County, and looking for good food at affordable prices, try the Greensboro Restaurant, in the village of Greensboro. This small-town-style eatery offers nearly 30 sandwiches and 25 entrees, including such country favorites as liver and onions, country fried steak, and, of course, crab cakes. Breakfast, salad, and children's menus are also available.

And for a quick pick-me-up or a tasty pastry, try the Firehouse Coffee Cafe, on Main Street in Denton. This small, friendly coffee house offers quality java and an ever-changing assortment of baked goodies.

See more info on Caroline County dining

 
  NIGHTLIFE

You've probably already guessed that wild nights are not a specialty of this sleepy rural community! But: if you're in the mood to shoot a little pool, head over to the family-oriented Good Times Pool House in Greensboro. It's an alcohol-free, family-friendly country pool hall with eight tables, four booths, five TVs, and a selection of corn dogs, hamburgers, and chicken salad sandwiches. Good Times is open Tuesday through Saturday, from 9:00 am until, well, until things get slow.

See more info on Caroline County nightlife


  TRANSPORTATION

AIR: The Salisbury Ocean City-Wicomico Regional Airport, approximately 50 miles from Denton, offers daily U.S. Airways flights from Philadelphia International Airport. Private planes, meanwhile, can land just 15 miles from Denton at the general aviation Easton Municipal Airport.

CAR: Drive time from New York City is approximately 3 hours and 30 minutes, with Philadelphia taking 2 hours and 10 minutes, and Baltimore and Washington, DC each clocking in at approximately 1 and 1/2 hours.

CAR RENTAL: Car rentals are available at the Salisbury Ocean City-Wicomico Regional Airport from Enterprise (800-261-7331), Avis (800-331-1212) and Hertz (800-654-3131). Hertz also offers a Caroline County location in the town of Preston.

TRAIN: No passenger trains travel directly into Caroline County. Amtrak provides rail with connecting bus service from New York, Newark, and Philadelphia to Salisbury, Maryland, which is an hour's drive from the center of Caroline County. Greyhound and local bus service can then be taken from Salisbury into Caroline County. Amtrak trip lengths to Salisbury vary from 3 hours and 18 minutes to 5 hours, depending on time and point of departure.

BUS: Greyhound buses are available from New York City, Newark, and Philadelphia to Easton, Maryland, which is a 30-minute drive from the center of Caroline County. Greyhound trip lengths vary from 4 to 15 hours, depending on your time and point of departure.

Bus service from Easton into and around Caroline County is then available from Maryland Upper Shore Transit (MUST). MUST provides transportation between most of the county's larger municipalities, but not directly to its tourist attractions.

TAXI: Taxi service in Caroline County is provided by J.W. Express Taxi in Easton, Maryland.

See more info on Caroline County transportation


  TRAVEL TIPS

If you'll be vacationing without a car, your best bet is to stay in Denton, as it provides immediate access to the Choptank River and offers more restaurants, shops, and activities within walking distance than the county's other small municipalities. Denton is also located roughly in the middle of the county, with bus service to Caroline's north and south sections.



  LINKS

Caroline County Office of Tourism

www.carolinearts.org

www.carolinerecreation.org

www.carolinemd.org

www.storiesofthechesapeake.org


  MAP

For a detailed map of Caroline County, click here


  WEATHER

All photos courtesy of the Caroline County Office of Tourism, except: Tuckahoe State Park, courtesy of the Maryland Department of Natural Resources; Greensboro Trading Company, courtesy of the Greensboro Trading Company.





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