THINGS TO DO

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Boston Post Road is directly in front of the Old Saybrook train station. Taking a right and walking 1-1/2 blocks to the traffic light brings you to Main Street. The hub of town will be on your left.

Old Saybrook is a town to visit for a weekend or at least an overnight stay, not just due to the travel time, but also because the town has to be savored without a rush. Therefore, after dropping off one's bags at the hotel, the first stop has to be one of two—either the Chamber of Commerce where the friendly Diane is always eager to help, or Saybrook Cycle Works.

Both are within about 50 yards of each other, and a 15-minute walk from the train station. Bicycle rental is a steal at $7 an hour or $24.99 a day, and Jon Mason, manager of the store, also organizes cycling tours around the town.

The Chamber of Commerce offers a walking tour of historic Old Saybrook, not to mention everything you'll need to know about the town from restaurants to the names of celebrity residents.

For more local lore, visit the General William Hart House (pictured left) just beyond the town green on Main Street. Not only is the dwelling a period piece, it also serves as home to the Old Saybrook Historical Society. The society sponsors local exhibits as well as providing an historical library and archive of genealogy documents.

With only one real shopping street, the magnitude of things to do in Old Saybrook is in no way proportional to the size of the town. From antique shopping to sailing, canoeing and kayaking, there is no one single activity that any visitor could satisfactorily accomplish with a single short day's visit.

Old Saybrook is an antique lover's heaven offering over 400 antique stores within a 2-mile radius. Right at the train station is Antiques Depot, where one can lose themselves in the 10,000 square ft. of affordable antiques and collectibles by over 95 dealers. With a large selection of furniture, china, glass, artwork, silver, books and jewelry, the store also buys and offers appraisals. The Essex-Saybrook Antiques Village on Middlesex Turnpike/Route 154 (about five minutes by taxi) houses over 120 dealers selling ephemera, maps, estate jewelry and clocks.

There's a wide range of other shopping options as well. Stores include Harbor Books and The Life of Riley, which specializes in Irish imports. Outdoorsy types shouldn't miss North Cove Outfitters, voted "Retailer of the Year" by Canoe & Kayak Magazine.

The Connecticut River, referred to as the backbone of New England, is certainly the spine of Old Saybrook. The history of Old Saybrook is built around this river, and indeed, it continues to maintain a central point of importance in the town.

If you want to make a splash of your own, visit Chimney Point Boat Rentals, and they can set you up. Once you've got your marine vehicle, head to North Cove Outfitters if you want to rent fly-fishing equipment.

You can also leave the driving to someone else, and take a Saybrook Point Cruise aboard Deep River Navigation's "Aunt Polly." Sea Sprite Sportfishing Charters operates out of Old Saybrook. Fish with them for trophy bass, bluefish and bonita. Real Escape offers charter yachting trips on their 56-foot yacht (capacity of 40 people). If you happen to be in town from January to March, don't miss a Bald Eagle Cruise complete with a naturalist on board!

Swing by Harvey's Beach on Route 154 during the summer. You'll be rewarded with 100 yards of beach, a playground, concession stand and watchful lifeguards. At the opposite end of Old Saybrook, where the Connecticut River and Long Island Sound meet, you'll find both the Lynde Point and Saybrook Point lighthouses.

If avoiding sand (traps, that is) is more your style, Old Saybrook Fenwick Golf Club, is a good bet. They're open year-round, but use is restricted to residents during July and August. Don't despair, you can always putt around at Saybrook Point Mini Golf.

Get crafty at The Clayhouse (pictured left), a pottery studio where you can select ready made objects like plates and candlesticks, and turn them into creations of your own. Home to the Old Saybrook Artists Association, the Tracy Art Center offers a variety of art classes for all ages and skill levels. Main Street Yarn and Craft holds classes and workshops on topics ranging from glass etching to quilting.

LODGING

One of the homes on the National Historic Register, The Deacon Timothy Pratt House on Main Street offers bed and breakfast accommodation in a convenient location. Built circa 1746, this historic home is no more than 5 minutes from the train station by taxi and only takes about 15-20 minutes on foot for those without heavy bags. Rates begin at $100/night.

There are about 10 choices of hotels in Old Saybrook, including many familiar chains. The largest is Comfort Inn offering 120 rooms, as well as an indoor pool and sauna. Located on Essex Road, the Comfort Inn is within 10 minutes of the train station by taxi. Prices begin around $50/night.

Even cats have a place to stay in Old Saybrook. The Whiskers Inn, a bed and breakfast for felines, provides a home away from home for your furry friends. $12 per guest per day.

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DINING

With well over 20 restaurants to choose from—all within a mile radius, there is no shortage of cuisine to whet the appetite. Keep your rental bicycle since many of the restaurants are located on Boston Post Road, which isn't terribly pedestrian-friendly. The main mode of transport in Old Saybrook is car, and with the exception of Main Street, much of the town is geared towards them.

However, I ate at the Paperback Cafe on Main Street, which is well accessible on foot. Right next to the cinema, The cafè is one of the late night businesses in Old Saybrook, shutting at 11 p.m. Mandy, a server, described it as an exciting den of thrills and chills after hours. I was quite thrilled by the vegetable barley soup I had as part of my half- seafood sandwich and soup combo.

The cafe has a very relaxed atmosphere, offering guests a choice of tables and chairs for the waiter service section, or a lounging area where guests may order directly from the bar. I chose to lounge in a settee, while leafing through a selection of the magazines on the coffee table. The decor is modern. Filled bookshelves completely cover the back wall, while the rest of the walls are adorned with artwork, showcasing local talent. I could have spent my entire afternoon here, but duty called and I tore myself away.

Also consider Cafe Routier, a French bistro with national acclaim, Johnny Ad's Restaurant, "The Little Seafood Restaurant with the Big Ocean Taste," or Pat's Kountry Kitchen, which serves up homey delights like pot roast and meatloaf.

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NIGHTLIFE

Old Saybrook isn't exactly a late night kind of town, but there are some evening entertainment choices to be found. The Paperback Cafè has live jazz from 8 to 11 pm on Fridays and Saturdays. The Main Street Tavern also has music on the same nights.

If you can't stay away from the movies, Hoyts Cinemas-6 on Main Street shows the latest flicks.

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TRANSPORTATION

As you know, public transportation in CT is lacking. If you are car-less, on a budget and want to go to Old Saybrook on the weekend, transportation is possible—but timing is everything!

The most convenient route is to take Amtrak all the way.

However, your cheapest route is to take Metro-North to New Haven up Friday and catch the Connecticut Commuter Rail train to Old Saybrook. Since the Connecticut Commuter Rail does not run on weekends, you'll take Amtrak back to the city from Old Saybrook on Saturday or Sunday. Of course you can go RT on Metro-North if you go up mid-week.

TRAIN:

METRO-NORTH goes as far as New Haven from Grand Central Station. From there a Connecticut Commuter Rail train can take you to Old Saybrook.

Schedule: Metro-North runs several times a day (about twice an hour during the week), but CCR doesn't run on weekends.

Travel Time: About two hours and 50 minutes for the first leg, and an additional 50 minutes for the second.

Call 1-800-METRO-INFO for details.

AMTRAK makes regular stops at Old Saybrook. Board at Penn Station and take the train to Old Saybrook.

Schedule: Trains run about six times a day.

Travel Time: Approximately two and a half hours.

Call 1-800-USA-RAIL for details.

BUS:

CT TRANSIT : This is not really a viable option (we looked into it) since you'd have to take one bus from the New Haven RR station to downtown New Haven to catch another bus to Old Saybrook. Plus, it only drops you at a nursing home in Old Saybrook and only on the weekdays. So much for that!

CAR:

By car from New York City, take Interstate 95 to Exit 69 at Old Saybrook.

CAR RENTAL:

Enterprise has a rental center at 225 Middlesex Turnpike. 860-395-0758.

LOCAL TRANSPORTATION

TROLLEY:

The "Jolly Red Trolley" can make your life easier if you are in Old Saybrook during the summer. In July and August, the trolley runs from 9 am to 10 pm, seven days a week. In June and September, it runs weekends only. The trolley stops at the train station, the marina and many places in between. A donation is recommended.

TAXI:

East Shore Cab Co. 860-388-2819

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TRAVEL TIPS

My journey on Amtrak was not without adventure—the train guard only opens doors of cars with passengers getting off at Old Saybrook, and she missed mine. Amtrak very graciously paid for my cab back to Old Saybrook, but users are advised to stay alert when nearing town.

LINKS

For more information:

Visit Connecticut

MAP

For a detailed map of Old Saybrook, please click here.